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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 4:15 pm

I ment that I built it "good enough for dis job".

The 19/32cdx was $16 a sheet.

I used 2 coat of the roof compound which is about 3x thicker than paint.

It works so well that instead of caulking the seams, I just went over the seams with the coating and it fills them right up.

When cured its about like 1/16th vinyl.

The guy I got the trailer from had just put new led lights on the trailer and with it being a giant white box, you can see it a mile away in the headlights.

The rack keeps the shade about 6 inches from the roof for ventilation.

Since the interior is all wood, I can do shelves, hooks, or even a closet rod to hang a garment bag, and still change anything that does'nt work like I planned.

Thanks for the input.
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Postby gyre » Fri May 13, 2011 4:40 pm

I shopped around and paid $21 to $32 for my plywood.
I found cheaper, but as described, the stuff was way above grade usa fir.
We have rain here, so better grade matters more here, probably.
I wanted a smooth interior.
I put the good grade inside.
In some places, it is hard to tell the bad side.
And I could have gone much thinner with it being better grade five layer.
I reduced the deck to 5/8", and could have done 1/2", true sizing, by the way.
I didn't want to spend so much, but worth it.

Copper or brass hardware is easy to get, for the electrical posts.
I think I've seen them sold with caps for this too.

How did you attach to the deck, or did you?
Through bolting for the 2 x 4s?


You'll find that at night, diamond grade striping is more reflective than a mirror polished stainless trailer or a white one.
I'll add it to mine.

I have had a ticket or accident blame dropped more than once because the cop was sure I was easily seen.
More important, if someone hits your trailer, your tow vehicle can be dragged into it easily enough.
Trailers are invisible to many people.
When they or you are changing lanes is the biggest risk.
That's why I suggest side turn signals in particular.
Easy to get.
They crank them out for semis now.

Additional trailer lights are always easily shifted to the next trailer.
I don't consider lighting lost money.

White is an effective color though, especially for heat.

I just think trailers need to be more visible than everything else.
You've got that for daytime.

Looks good.
I wish they sold swamp coolers here.
Let us know how the awning arrangement works.
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Postby unjonharley » Fri May 13, 2011 4:48 pm

/

I keep coming up with different ideas on how to wind releave the shade.

Have'nt settled on any one way yet.. Trying to keep it simple.. Last year the wind would work and work on the shade.. By the middle of the night it would pull a stake or two..

The year I'm attaching one side to a roof rack..
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Postby gyre » Fri May 13, 2011 4:53 pm

I use bungees to try to damp the wind some.
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Postby capjbadger » Fri May 13, 2011 6:01 pm

FIGJAM wrote:Bolt the walls to the rails.

Image


FIGJAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would highly suggest lockwashers on those. Else someone behind you on the road is going to have hex nut shaped dents in their grill. ;)

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Postby Elliot » Fri May 13, 2011 6:09 pm

Even better: NyLock nuts. Takes more time to install, but they will NEVER come off. :D
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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 6:16 pm

The deck is not attached to the walls.

Once the walls were up, I pushed a deck panel into place, then c-clamped while I drilled the holes and bolted to the frame.

This left no gap between the wall and the deck, so I coated over the seam.

In the pic, you can hardly tell where the floor and the wall meet.

Same thing on the roof and corners exept the need for the 2x4s, and they help pull the warps out.

Again, in the pix, you can see how tight those corners came together,

No room for caulk! 8)

Ran screws every 6 inches where it was'nt bolted to the side rails.
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Postby capjbadger » Fri May 13, 2011 6:20 pm

Elliot wrote:Even better: NyLock nuts. Takes more time to install, but they will NEVER come off. :D

Ah yes, those are good too. But since he already has the nuts there... :)

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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 6:23 pm

capjbadger wrote:
Elliot wrote:Even better: NyLock nuts. Takes more time to install, but they will NEVER come off. :D

Ah yes, those are good too. But since he already has the nuts there... :)

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How about I just bend them a bit with a hammer?
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Postby unjonharley » Fri May 13, 2011 6:32 pm

FIGJAM wrote:
capjbadger wrote:
Elliot wrote:Even better: NyLock nuts. Takes more time to install, but they will NEVER come off. :D

Ah yes, those are good too. But since he already has the nuts there... :)

-Badger


How about I just bend them a bit with a hammer?


Just use a punch or chisel and marrie the threads close to the nuts;
Or if the bolts are small enough, Strip the thread with a pair of plyers
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Postby capjbadger » Fri May 13, 2011 6:41 pm

FIGJAM wrote:
capjbadger wrote:
Elliot wrote:Even better: NyLock nuts. Takes more time to install, but they will NEVER come off. :D

Ah yes, those are good too. But since he already has the nuts there... :)

-Badger


How about I just bend them a bit with a hammer?

Personally I prefer less destructive methods in such things. ;)
Gives me more options later on.

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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 6:44 pm

I agree, and it wont be that hard to add the lock washers.
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Postby LeChatNoir » Fri May 13, 2011 6:58 pm

Lock washers or lock nuts are pretty much a necessity. The road will loose them up, but the playa will cause your wood to shrink and things to get loose too. The fasteners that I didn't use locks on for The Contraption were way loose by the end of the week.

ETA: Wait a minute... I just remembered that even some of the bolts with lock washers were loose, in particular the ones holding the deck boards to the frame. That's the shrinkage I was thinking of.
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Postby ygmir » Fri May 13, 2011 9:10 pm

I don't think lock washer are very effective using wood.
Or star washers.
I'd probably go with double nuts or nylock. Elliot, knows his stuff.
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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 9:55 pm

Ok, the gauntlet is in the dust!

I'll find a solution, and it wont be any of those. :P
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Postby gyre » Sat May 14, 2011 3:06 am

I'm using much larger hardware on mine, washer and lock washer.

I wonder if I'll have a problem with it backing off?
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 5:17 am

What about locktite?
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Postby LeChatNoir » Sat May 14, 2011 5:40 am

I also used loctite on some fasteners and it worked great, even after three times in the desert. Use the Blue "removable" kind so you can take the nuts off later if you have/want to.
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Postby Elorrum » Sat May 14, 2011 5:54 am

FIGJAM wrote:Ok, the gauntlet is in the dust!

I'll find a solution, and it wont be any of those. :P

So it is form over function!
I haven't heard of anyone using line snubbers like these for tent or shade applications. I don't really have anything heavy enough to merit these, but I think they are cool.
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Postby Packoderm » Sat May 14, 2011 7:49 am

You could easily get some foam insulation, upholster or paint it, and fasten it to the inside ceiling and top 4 feet of the walls. You could fasten it in a way that it can be easily removed when you hose the thing out. That would help keep it warm at night and help with sound insulation. I'd like to see a photo of your shade over the trailer set up, or do you just tuck the trailer under that shade stretched from your truck?

By the way, I really enjoy these threads about technical matters. Thanks.
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Postby unjonharley » Sat May 14, 2011 7:59 am

Elorrum wrote:
FIGJAM wrote:Ok, the gauntlet is in the dust!

I'll find a solution, and it wont be any of those. :P

So it is form over function!
I haven't heard of anyone using line snubbers like these for tent or shade applications. I don't really have anything heavy enough to merit these, but I think they are cool.
Image



use an Ensign Knot.. It keeps lines tight.. The coffe camp on 8:30 uses the same knot on a flat canvas wall
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 11:34 am

Ok, heres what it looks like.

I only put the corner stakes in for this demo.

With all the stakes in, I can make it much tighter.

Hook the front edge of the tarp to the front tube with ball bungees.

Extend the shade rack and slide in the long tubes.

Unroll the tarp back and over the playapod, then stake the end of the tarp to the ground.


Image

Now GENTLY inch the truck forward to tighten things up.

Image

Something that I did'nt plan for.

The 1 inch tube has some flex, almost like a big spring.

This created a slump between the rails at the back of the pod.

This works out ok because I like to roll my tarp then fold in thirds to store.

By using a 13ft pole from last years shade, I can unfold the tarp, slide this pole through the center, and it will be easier to unroll it back and over the playapod.

Then use the pole across that slump.

Theres about 6 inches between the tarp and the roof.

Image

I didn't put the ropes on for the demo, but they will go to the ends of these tubes.

Image

With the rope first stretched ridged from front to back, then caribiner the edge of the tarp to the rope, it will have tension from all angles.

This took about 30mins!
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Postby MyDearFriend » Sat May 14, 2011 2:21 pm

Simple, elegant, lightweight, and mobile. Breezy and dust-proof. Bigger on the inside than it is on the outside? :lol:

Bravo, Figjam!
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 2:28 pm

MyDearFriend wrote:Simple, elegant, lightweight, and mobile. Breezy and dust-proof. Bigger on the inside than it is on the outside? :lol:

Bravo, Figjam!



Yeah, it's so roomy I think I'll add a pool table, hot tub, and bowling ally. :lol:
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Postby ygmir » Sat May 14, 2011 3:27 pm

you, FJ, are Da Best!!!
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 3:54 pm

Check this, the tounge weight is about 10 pounds. :lol:

The batteries will get that to 130 pounds.
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 7:54 pm

If you want to find me, this is my address.

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Postby ygmir » Sat May 14, 2011 8:00 pm

FIGJAM wrote:Check this, the tounge weight is about 10 pounds. :lol:

The batteries will get that to 130 pounds.


that's one thing so many people don't seem to understand:
Tongue weight.
You gotta have enough tongue weight. It helps keep the loaded trailer from "fishtailing", and, helps avoid "jack-knifing" in an emergency stop.
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Postby FIGJAM » Sat May 14, 2011 8:10 pm

Yeah, anything going in the trailer will be packed toward the front.
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Postby unjonharley » Sat May 14, 2011 8:13 pm

FIGJAM wrote:Check this, the tounge weight is about 10 pounds. :lol:

The batteries will get that to 130 pounds.


You might find some brain to figure what your maximun axel weight should be..

On the way home last year, I come across a closed way station.. I was 800 pounds over on the trailer axel.... Damn good thing I'm not a risk taker on the hwy.. One wrong move and I /someone else could be dead..Scares the hell out of me to think of it..
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