Travel trailer, cargo trailer or.....

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Travel trailer, cargo trailer or.....

Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 10:23 am

THE PLAYAPOD!!!!!!!!

This is about economy and convieniance and useing what you have.

I wanted something lighter than a travel trailer, but roomier than a cargo trailer.

Find a utility trailer.

Mine has a 6x8 deck. ($500)

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I removed the deck to put in a flat, solid floor.

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I installed the upright panels first so that they would cover the edge of the deck.

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I coated the pieces with roof coating before assembeling.

If I was buying the steel, I would have used 2 inch angle at the corners clear to the top of the pod, then 2 inch strap where the seams of the plywood butts together.

Make sure the skeleton is plumb and square!!!

A complete exoskeleton to bolt the panels to, then the roof would go in first, then the walls, then the deck.

This will keep the weather out, and if you needed to replace a panel, you just unbolt the panel and replace it.

Back to what I did. :lol:

After the walls were up, install the deck.

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I then put 2x4s at the inside corners, seams, and across the top to support the roof.

When it's all buttoned up it looks like this.

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The door is 3x6 framed with 2x4s for easy loading! (notice the mysterious hatch)

Built a small sliding window for venting the cooler.

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Throw in a carpet remnant and build a bed.

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My 2 deep cycle batteries will go under the head of the bed with 2 bolts going through the wall to hook jumper cables to for recharging the batteries if needed.

Remember the "mysterious hatch"?

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Thats the swamp cooler!

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Placement means I'm gonna need a blanket when napping during the day. :shock:

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This is NOT a roof rack!

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It's 1 1/2 inch 1/8 inch tube with 1 inch tube sleeved inside it.

Pins to hold the 1 inch in place.

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Where did I put that crutch?

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This is used to slide the rack out.

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The white line tells me how far to extend the rack to line up the holes for the pins while extended.

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I have two 14ft pieces of 1 inch tube that slide throughthe rack.

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One 14ft stick of the 1 1/2 inch that slides through the rack on my truck.

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It was 2ft too short so I added a piece on one end.

Now you could cut these long ass pieces in half, but this way I can shift my shade by 8 feet on whichever side the sun is trieing to sneek under.

My tarp is 12x40.

One end is ancored to the front tube, then rolled back over the playapod, and angled down to the ground where it will have nine 18 inch rebar stakes holding that edge.

Then I just inch the truck forward till everything is as tight as a trampoline.

Some what like this.

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No upright posts with the new system!

I have some eye bolts that will go through the ends of the long tubes.

Rope will be ancored from the back corner stake, angled up through the eye bolt, forward through the next eye bolt, then stretched ridgid to the tube on the truck.

Caribener the edge of the tarp to the ropes and camp is done!

It will take less time for set up than it took for me to type this! :lol:

Now testing has shown that the playapod costs about 1 mile per gallon to tow.

It whieghs about 850 pounds.

Cost: less than $1000!

It will have 3 power outlets. 1 at the head of the bed, 1 at the back to plug in the cooler, and 1 on the outside back to plug in exterior lights for the camp.

The white interior means any small light will illuminate the space.

And the best part is that to clean it, you just take everything out, raise the tounge, and hose it out! 8)

You could change the dimensions buy going to a 12ft or 16ft base and still not have to cut the plywood for the sides.

The hieght is 6ft 1inch inside and 8 1/2ft tall from the ground.


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Postby MyDearFriend » Wed May 11, 2011 10:38 am

wow, Figjam, that is amazing. :!: :!: :!:

8) 8) 8)
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 10:43 am

Thank you, could'nt let you down, now could I. :lol:

It was quick and easy to build, but took me longer cause my backs only good for 2 or 3 hours a day.

A healthy person could probibly do it in a couple of days.
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Postby illy dilly » Wed May 11, 2011 10:51 am

HOLY SHIT!
You kick ass FIGJAM!

I'm not nearly as kick ass as you! But when you said there will be two bolts on the out side of the Playa Pod for charging the batteries, will they always be connected to the batter?
My only thought is that they will probably get super corroded. But I'm sure you thought of that, and I'm just not understanding the whole design.

What is the white stuff that you used?
Why don't ya stick your head in that hole and find out? ~piehole
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Postby Mojojita » Wed May 11, 2011 10:58 am

***swoon***
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Postby Minxy » Wed May 11, 2011 11:08 am

Geez, what an excellent set-up! I wanna come by your camp and check it out!
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 11:10 am

illy dilly wrote:HOLY SHIT!
You kick ass FIGJAM!

I'm not nearly as kick ass as you! But when you said there will be two bolts on the out side of the Playa Pod for charging the batteries, will they always be connected to the batter?
My only thought is that they will probably get super corroded. But I'm sure you thought of that, and I'm just not understanding the whole design.

What is the white stuff that you used?


Just bolts going through the wall at the front to hook the jumpers to and inside, either connected permenent or make a short set of cables just to be safe.

The "white stuff" is Henry's elastomer roof coating (7 year warrenty) for $80 for 4.75gals.

Since it's made for roofs, I'm not afraid to hose out the "pod".

It also comes in a 12 year.

Sticks 5x better than paint and NO PREP! :wink:
Last edited by FIGJAM on Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 11:15 am

Minxy wrote:Geez, what an excellent set-up! I wanna come by your camp and check it out!


I'll be camped close to 5 and H on the spoke, so I'm easy to find and my avatar will be on the angle tarp facing the street. :)
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 11:20 am

Oh, and if I was pulling this with a car, I would park facing north and run the tarp from one side over to the other and just stake both ends.

I think the slide outs could be adapted to any big vehicle for shade instead of those rv awnings that can't be used at BM. 8)
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Postby unjonharley » Wed May 11, 2011 12:23 pm

/
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Postby unjonharley » Wed May 11, 2011 12:27 pm

/

Nice work, FIGJAM..


I dream of a (gypsy style) caravan some day..
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Postby ConnieH » Wed May 11, 2011 12:42 pm

Excellent! Your engineering skills, and creativity in use of materials lying around continues to amaze and inspire me :)
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Postby burner von braun » Wed May 11, 2011 12:50 pm

It's... TERRIFIC !
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Postby ygmir » Wed May 11, 2011 12:57 pm

so nice FJ!!!
good work!!
no, great work!!!

and, we may well be neighbors......we're usually around 5 and "C".
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Postby gaminwench » Wed May 11, 2011 12:59 pm

***drool***
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Postby AntiM » Wed May 11, 2011 1:23 pm

Bravo! Wonderful to see it in real live progress, so much more immediate than just words, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. I hope I can see it on the playa in full glory!
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 5:50 pm

I'll post updates as I do finishing touches.

I try to make things multi-purpose.

Next is a 5ft long box, 12x12 inches to use as a bench,step, and storage for the tarps, stakes, caribiners, bungee balls, rope, and hand sledge.

In a pinch I could remove the bed and sleep 4 on the floor.

Keep everything adaptable.
Last edited by FIGJAM on Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby ForumSn0w » Wed May 11, 2011 5:55 pm

FIGJAM, you always come up with awesome ideas. That is going to be a sweet trailer on the cheap. I definitely want to build one of those swamp coolers.
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Postby Bin Noddin » Wed May 11, 2011 6:02 pm

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All this and well-chilled testicles, too. Awesome!
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Postby FIGJAM » Wed May 11, 2011 10:08 pm

Almost forgot, the cost included permanent tags and registration! ($130)
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Postby FIGJAM » Thu May 12, 2011 6:33 pm

Here's the cost breakdown.

All ready had the piano hinge for the door and hatch.

Utility trailer: $500

Steel for the shade slide out: $160

Lumber: $260

Permenent plate and registration: $130

Roof coating: $80

Screws:$5

Bolts $10

I don't have special skills.

I'm not a carpenter, but I can use a tape measure and saw.

I'm not a welder, but I can make some ugly welds that will hold.

I don't have special tools, but I can put a steel cutting blade in a skill saw.

I bolted some wood to a trailer frame.

With a little forthought, anyone can do this.

I just thought about it as I was going to sleep, then built what I concieved.
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Postby unjonharley » Thu May 12, 2011 8:04 pm

FIGJAM wrote:



I just thought about it as I was going to sleep, then built what I concieved.


Puts you in the rank of contraptioneer..
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Postby LeChatNoir » Thu May 12, 2011 8:29 pm

FIGJAM,

Nice work. I"m loving seeing your projects here. The PlayaPod is just about the perfect size, too. Nice work and good choices of materials.

Contraptioneer indeed.
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Postby gyre » Thu May 12, 2011 11:06 pm

Insulation?

What kind of plywood did you use?

If I can help with the lighting, let me know.

Nice size.
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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 5:44 am

gyre wrote:Insulation?

What kind of plywood did you use?

If I can help with the lighting, let me know.

Nice size.


No insulation. I wanted to keep it super simple, so this keeps it lighter and cheaper.

19/32 cdx ply is true 1/2 inch plywood.

You could add lots of bells and whisels to this thing, but I want to keep the cost to tow down, plus the low wieght means you could tow it with a car.
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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 11:51 am

Plywood is never completely flat and sometimes it warps.

By off setting the interior 2x4s just a little and predrilling the hole only in the plywood, you can pull the warps out and get tight fitting corners.


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Remember: the walls went up first so that they covered the outside edge of the floor pannels.

Hard to see the seam, huh.

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Bolt the walls to the rails.

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Now wiring.

NEVER EVER staple wire to your playapod!!!!






That being said, here's how I stapled wire to the playapod.

Wrap a piece of gorrilla tape around the wire where you will staple.

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I did'nt have any electricakle boxes for my outlets, so I took some pieces of 1x2 and screwed them to the wall.

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I want to be able to switch out my batteries to use on my trike, so I'm useing clips instead of bolting the wire to the battery.

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Notice the bolts marked red and black comming through the wall.

I'm making some short heavy cables to hook from those bolts to the batteries to recharge as needed.

Looks like this from the outside.

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Now I can run my long heavy duty jumper cables from the truck to those bolts to recharge once or twice a week.

By running the truck for an hour or so to recharge, I wont need a genny or solar panels.

I'm keeping my camp simple and easy to set up cause I expect to spend most of my time exploring, at least for a couple of years, then maybe do somthing more elaborate if I spend more time in camp.

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Outside outlet.

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By using polerized plugs and outlets, I know which side is positive and negative.

One last thing.

The little extra switch on the cooler is to turn the pump on or off as needed.

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There's an old playa saying, GEFDJ, (Good Enough For Dis Job.)

OK, if there isn't there ought to be, so I'll be saying it!!!






FIGJAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by FIGJAM on Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby gyre » Fri May 13, 2011 12:04 pm

Consider insulation.
Structural foam can be used as part of the structure and fibreglass can be used with a space frame, like 1/4" and 1/4", etc.
More rigidity, similar weight.
Reflectix weighs almost nothing, and could be removable, as could foam sheet with foil.
I've used the foam this way.


I had to replace my liner recently and replaced the cdx with exterior grade oregon fir five layer.
Stronger, and I could have gone thinner with it.
Marine would have been better.
Treated base grade was not recommended.

A vented attic, even thin, might be useful if you ever use it without the awning, like in transit.

I strongly recommend separate turn signals, including side turn signals.
We would see trailers, but most people don't.

I just got a book on wiring options, plugs, etc, so if I can help, let me know.
Of course, I recommend conspicuity tape.
Fyi, the harbor freight stuff is fake.

My quandary is that I never use combined brake/turn signals, but I am borrowing a trailer wired that way now, and might in the future, so I have to decide how to wire to deal with that.
I may end up with two different systems on the truck.

I like to use relays to isolate and allow good trailer lighting.
Seems I'm not the only one to think of that.
The catalog I have offers several black boxes for this.

Remember that reverse lighting is just as useful for warning people not to hit you, as seeing.
I like the hella dual bulb work lights.
They make flush mount and bolt on, multiple lens patterns.
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Postby FIGJAM » Fri May 13, 2011 12:32 pm

GEFDJ gyre. 8)
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Postby gyre » Fri May 13, 2011 3:57 pm

Which part?

I consider my time worth something.
CDX is trash here.
Not worth painting to me.
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Postby Elliot » Fri May 13, 2011 3:59 pm

FIGJAM wrote:GEFDJ


I believe that phrase was coined by my old friend Otis Gudenov. I consult him often when I work on my bus.
:lol:
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