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Materials and expertise...whether you need them or have them to share, you can let folks know here.

Postby capjbadger » Mon May 23, 2011 2:06 pm

capjbadger wrote:
Foxfur wrote:Badger,
AC is EZ. Just a three prong cord and a switch will do it. I have a small AC solid state 'dimmer'. It's made for fan motor speed control. The motor on the lower left has a rheostat wired in for speed control. I'll test it to be sure it's ok. It might be a better choice weight wise as well.

Where are you located? I'm about 45 minutes west of Portland.

Ff

Yeah, that dial did catch my eye... :)
I figure that lightswitch dimmer I have laying around wouldn't do the trick since I'm sure the motor would draw more amps that it could handle. :)

I'm about 40 miles north of San Francisco. (Petaluma)

-Badger

So should I plan a roadtrip? :)

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Postby Foxfur » Mon May 23, 2011 2:27 pm

capjbadger wrote:
capjbadger wrote:
Foxfur wrote:Badger,
AC is EZ. Just a three prong cord and a switch will do it. I have a small AC solid state 'dimmer'. It's made for fan motor speed control. The motor on the lower left has a rheostat wired in for speed control. I'll test it to be sure it's ok. It might be a better choice weight wise as well.

Where are you located? I'm about 45 minutes west of Portland.

Ff

Yeah, that dial did catch my eye... :)
I figure that lightswitch dimmer I have laying around wouldn't do the trick since I'm sure the motor would draw more amps that it could handle. :)

I'm about 40 miles north of San Francisco. (Petaluma)

-Badger

So should I plan a roadtrip? :)

-Badger


I'll test it up, should be ok, pulled from working equipment. After that, I can drop it in the mail. Doesn't weigh but 5 pounds.
Sound ok?

Ff
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Postby capjbadger » Mon May 23, 2011 4:05 pm

Foxfur wrote:
capjbadger wrote:
capjbadger wrote:
Foxfur wrote:Badger,
AC is EZ. Just a three prong cord and a switch will do it. I have a small AC solid state 'dimmer'. It's made for fan motor speed control. The motor on the lower left has a rheostat wired in for speed control. I'll test it to be sure it's ok. It might be a better choice weight wise as well.

Where are you located? I'm about 45 minutes west of Portland.

Ff

Yeah, that dial did catch my eye... :)
I figure that lightswitch dimmer I have laying around wouldn't do the trick since I'm sure the motor would draw more amps that it could handle. :)

I'm about 40 miles north of San Francisco. (Petaluma)

-Badger

So should I plan a roadtrip? :)

-Badger


I'll test it up, should be ok, pulled from working equipment. After that, I can drop it in the mail. Doesn't weigh but 5 pounds.
Sound ok?

Ff

Sounds amazing! Make sure there is a return address. I have a thank you gift to send you. :) It's the least I can do.
(I'll PM you an address)

-Badger
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Postby ygmir » Mon May 23, 2011 4:32 pm

still looking for a manual control whistle/steam valve, 3/4" or bigger.
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Postby gyre » Mon May 23, 2011 4:36 pm

ygmir wrote:still looking for a manual control whistle/steam valve, 3/4" or bigger.

These guys have a great whistle museum.
They might know something useful.
You can pull the whistles yourself there.

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/
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Postby unjonharley » Mon May 23, 2011 4:40 pm

ygmir wrote:still looking for a manual control whistle/steam valve, 3/4" or bigger.


You will just have to make a trip to Salem in Aug. They have yard sale at the Great Steamup a few mile north of here.. At Powerland, Brooks Or.
Unbelievable amounts of junk..
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Postby ygmir » Mon May 23, 2011 5:15 pm

unjonharley wrote:
ygmir wrote:still looking for a manual control whistle/steam valve, 3/4" or bigger.


You will just have to make a trip to Salem in Aug. They have yard sale at the Great Steamup a few mile north of here.. At Powerland, Brooks Or.
Unbelievable amounts of junk..


I have a friend in Salem,......good call UJH.

in the mean time, I'll hope someone has one.
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Postby theCryptofishist » Mon May 23, 2011 7:24 pm

AntiM wrote:
MyDearFriend wrote:Savannah my dear, that ribbon is green & gold and a skosh over 6 yards long. (I put lavish amounts on a green velvet renfaire dress.) Shoot me a PM with your mailing address & it's yours.

AntiM, Duder, let me know what you like & where to send it.

I have a huge amount of the reversible black & silver, nearly the whole 20-yd spool I think...


HUzzah! The ribbon arrived, it is stunning. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Dtto. Thank you very much.
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Man, no wonder they always win....." Lonesomebri


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Postby Minxy » Mon May 23, 2011 7:31 pm

Oh MY goodness, MyDearFriend!!! You are such a sweet lady!

I got in the mail a fantastic smorgasbord of gorgeous ribbon!! So so sweet and generous! I can't wait to make you something. :) <3 <3 Thank you!
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Postby MyDearFriend » Tue May 24, 2011 5:10 am

8) 8) 8)

Those ribbons were not doing anything for anybody, sitting in my closet, so, I am happy to know you got them, and that they made you smile.

8) 8) 8)
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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 8:11 am

unjonharley wrote:
ygmir wrote:still looking for a manual control whistle/steam valve, 3/4" or bigger.


You will just have to make a trip to Salem in Aug. They have yard sale at the Great Steamup a few mile north of here.. At Powerland, Brooks Or.
Unbelievable amounts of junk..


http://www.antiquepowerland.com/info/annual.html
"The Great Oregon Steam-Up July 30th & 31st and August 6th & 7th, 2011 . The Great Oregon Steam-Up is the largest event at Antique Powerland during the year..."

Adair Village, Oregon (near Corvallis) has a steam powered sawmill and other steamy goodness. They have several events. I can't find a direct link, but...
Contact the Corvallis Society of Model Engineers who have the 2nd biggest HO sclae setup in the state: mailto: info@csme1959.org
I'm not really into model railroads, but, I as i'm getting older, they're seeming a little neater...

There's the Toledo Threshing Bee in Wa State (Cowlitz Prairie Steam Threshing Bee and Tractor Show ). Usually in July, the focus more on small engines though there is a large steam contingent. There ARE lots of garage salr type tarps-on-ground sellers that have old timey tools, plumbing, valves... We go every year. I can't find info on it 'til the last minute. I guess the old steamers aren't too keen on the net???

The components you can find at steam shows are incredible. Prices are typically insanely low.

Awesome idea Unjohn!

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Postby ygmir » Tue May 24, 2011 8:30 am

Thanks Ff:
I go to Packwood Wa a few times per year, so, maybe that Cowlitz thing is nearby?
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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 8:45 am

I forgot an excellent resource for valves and fittings:
http://www.tompkinsind.com/

I've used them extensively in the past. One time I needed a 37deg JIC to BSPP, another time NPT to metric (which I'll need for a mini poofer w/ a swiss Luxfer accumulator tank...)

I'm going to put one together in the next week. Mebbe once I do, I should start a new thread?

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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 8:48 am

ygmir wrote:Thanks Ff:
I go to Packwood Wa a few times per year, so, maybe that Cowlitz thing is nearby?


It's outside of Toledo. There's an airstrip right next door, dirt strip. They use it for the steam tractor pulls :).
Yggie, It is well worth it to go. It is amaaazing, wow!

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Postby ygmir » Tue May 24, 2011 9:15 am

sounds like fun!!!!
I'm not finding "whistle/steam valves" on the site you suggest above.
Is there another name, for the self closing full flow valves I'm thinking of?
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Postby unjonharley » Tue May 24, 2011 9:33 am

ygmir wrote:sounds like fun!!!!
I'm not finding "whistle/steam valves" on the site you suggest above.
Is there another name, for the self closing full flow valves I'm thinking of?


You might try to PM LaChatNior ( the black cat ) He plays in that type of old junk.. At a glance, Ebay had a 1/2 inch yesterday..
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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 10:20 am

Couldn't wait. I went out to the shop and made an alpha mockup. I used a lot of stainless cause I like it and have it on hand.

Image
Using a Luxfer aluminum gas cylinder as the accumulator.
The shutoff, as presently configured, will not cut the incoming gas (black hose).


Image
The tee on the left is the inlet to the accumulator as well as the pilot feed.
The needle valve is to regulate pilot flame size.

I need to 'defittify' by dropping some fittings and combining function.
I know I have a 1/2" cross fitting around here.
I want to fit the ball valve as close to the accumulator as possible but just ahead of the inlet.
I'm heading down to storage to get solenoid valves and more Swagelock fittings...

Ff
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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 5:08 pm

Found more schtuff in storage.
Had to hit home depot for the 1/2" black iron pipe.


Here's what it'll look like:

Image
I ended up only finding 3/8ths solenoid valves. I'm ordering a 1/2in soon.
As a proof of concept unit, this setup should do fine.
It will be sturdier with the 1/2 inch valve.
I'll be moving the stainless ball valve up right before the solenoid valve.
It'll be the unit shut-off valve, the main will be on the supply tank.
The pilot light will be about 3in above the top of the pipe end.
Read that it allows the gas to hit and mix with a bit of air before ignition.
Makes sense.
You can barely see the top or the pilot light tube because of the tree.
Damned trees!


Image
The size transitions are a weak point to me, that and four more threaded joints.
Avoid excess joints where you can. Less joints = less potential leaks :)

I'll slather on some pipe dope and twist it all together in the next day or two.

Yay, fire!
Ff
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Postby Foxfur » Tue May 24, 2011 6:06 pm

ygmir wrote:sounds like fun!!!!
I'm not finding "whistle/steam valves" on the site you suggest above.
Is there another name, for the self closing full flow valves I'm thinking of?

I wasn't thinking. The sites I listed just tell you when the
events are (swapmeets, etc) but don't help you a bit
if you're not local.
I have some mining to do this summer but should be
able to hit a couple shows. I'll keep my eye open.

They could be called pop valves (not safety pop-off), yank valve,
rapid / quick exhaust valve.
You might try one of these:
Image
http://www.plumbsource.net/product/2193/Self-Closing-Shower-Valve-With-Pull-Chain.html
The old timey pull chain valve. $23.
Also emergency shower valves, they're spring
loaded to shut like the pull chain ones.
Are these valves approved for gas? Probably not.
But they'd probably work ok for testing.
Leak check with soap solution focusing on the stem packing.
I don't want to discourage you but using these
valves may cause problems involving
your ass and a lot of fire. Just a disclaimer...

Are steam valves or air horn yank valves approved? Nope.
Do people use them? Yep.
It'll be fine.

Ff

I forgot to mention faucet valves like they use at rest stops
and school restrooms. I'll bet they and the pull chain valves
are the same just with a hole installed in the handle :)
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I found it! I found it!

Postby Foxfur » Wed May 25, 2011 10:37 am

Here we go!
They are called quick opening globe valves.

Do you want a hand grip type?
Image

Or, maybe a yank stlye?
Image

McMaster-Carr. If it weren't for them, I'd never have built half the stuff I have...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#whistle-valves/=cgkl3x

They have them in the 150PSI flavor as well as the yummier 400PSI flavor.
The 1/2" 400PSI is about $80.
This is a lot cheaper than a solenoid valve by
more than half (and that's only for a 300PSI S.V.).

Yippie!

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Postby unjonharley » Wed May 25, 2011 11:08 am

/
/
Just looked up United Brass (under whistle valve).. They have steam whistle valves coming out thair butt..
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Postby Foxfur » Wed May 25, 2011 12:23 pm

unjonharley wrote:Just looked up United Brass (under whistle valve).. They have steam whistle valves coming out thair butt..


Ouch.
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Re: I found it! I found it!

Postby ygmir » Wed May 25, 2011 6:12 pm

Foxfur wrote:Here we go!
They are called quick opening globe valves.

Do you want a hand grip type?
Image

Or, maybe a yank stlye?
Image

McMaster-Carr. If it weren't for them, I'd never have built half the stuff I have...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#whistle-valves/=cgkl3x

They have them in the 150PSI flavor as well as the yummier 400PSI flavor.
The 1/2" 400PSI is about $80.
This is a lot cheaper than a solenoid valve by
more than half (and that's only for a 300PSI S.V.).

Yippie!

Ff


yeah, "Yank" style is what we need.
I've found plenty new ones.......I suppose more accuratly I should ask for one more affordable........."cheap"?

DMV requires the 300 PSI on all fittings, along with gas/oil designation. They also want sched. 80 pipe and fittings.

IIRC, that is.
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Postby Miles » Wed May 25, 2011 8:02 pm

Foxfur, I'd love those helmets if they haven't been claimed.
I like bikes and stuff
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Postby Foxfur » Wed May 25, 2011 8:08 pm

Miles wrote:Foxfur, I'd love those helmets if they haven't been claimed.

Bless you!
Do you want them at the burn or something sooner?

I'm surprised the beer tap outfit has no takers...
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Postby Miles » Wed May 25, 2011 11:46 pm

Id love em sooner but with shipping being what it is these days I can wait till then.
I like bikes and stuff
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Postby Foxfur » Fri May 27, 2011 10:57 am

Done!

Image

Image
I ended up using a suicide cord, wirenuts,
and a stomp switch for foot operation of the solenoid valve.
I can stand fully erect with both hands free to take photos :oops: ...

Image
I was going to have the gas inlet on the back of the manifold
but didn't like the balance issues and wanted both shutoff valves on the front.
Notice that the blue ball valve handle has a hole in it.
It's a locking handle I can throw a padlock on. My
friends always seem to want to run my contraptions
when I'm not around.

Image
The completed manifold! The gas inlet is vertical now.
Fewer projections = fewer chances of knocking it over.


The pilot light needs more work.
It was blowing out on each shot.
I had so much fun I didn't mind relighting one bit.
I'm going to try the 'stainless steel wool on a stick' trick
or plumb in a torch head.

Love it!

Ff

(We (I?) should probably get these posts moved to a new topic,
'Fire Poofer Construction' ?)
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Postby ygmir » Fri May 27, 2011 12:02 pm

Ff:
here's a good thread for posting this or any other project:

viewtopic.php?p=664343#664343

nice Poo&* (recognition of OED's intellectual property)

are you getting smoke rings or fireballs from it?
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Postby Foxfur » Fri May 27, 2011 2:03 pm

are you getting smoke rings or fireballs from it?


More like refinery flare-offs. They're tall and hissy.
My next one will be 3/4 or 1 inch...
I need to warm up my tanks in lukewarm water.
At 58 degrees I was only getting 90PSI.
I'm thinking 90-95 deg F to simulate the playa.

Thanks for the link!
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Postby ygmir » Fri May 27, 2011 8:15 pm

Foxfur wrote:
are you getting smoke rings or fireballs from it?


More like refinery flare-offs. They're tall and hissy.
My next one will be 3/4 or 1 inch...
I need to warm up my tanks in lukewarm water.
At 58 degrees I was only getting 90PSI.
I'm thinking 90-95 deg F to simulate the playa.

Thanks for the link!


thing is, 95 deg. will simulate mid day.....but, night temps easily are 70 and below, not uncommon to go into the 60's and I've seen ice.

experiment with the flare or expansion chamber at the end, to get the smoke/fire ring and "poof" sound.
It'll relate to pipe size mostly.

Also, as you repeatedly fire it, your static pressure will drop due to cooling of the liquid fuel. The faster you repeat fire, the faster the liquid cools.
We use multiple feed tanks, to help minimize this.
It's a "surface area available to boil" issue. Less area, more boiling, greater temp drop.

IIUC.
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