cooling your tent or van

Swamp Coolers, Cooler Management, Dry Ice, Misting Systems, and just plain how to beat the heat.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:59 pm

Mines better! :lol:
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:20 pm

300K views!!!!!!!!!!


WOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8) 8) 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:30 pm

RECAP!!!

The basic idea for the bucket cooler is just a smaller version of Yellowdog's cooler made from a rubbermade garbage can.

An evaporative cooler will reduce the tempature by 20 to 30 degrees.

Keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat. (WARNING! DO NOT SKIN A CAT, IT WONT HELP THIS PROJECT AND WILL IRRITATE YOUR PUSSY!!!)

All the ideas that people came up with on this thread are a perfect example of radical self relience! (Bravo!!!)

Get a 5 gallon bucket and lid.

Have your trained mice naw some holes in the bucket, or use a hole saw, or 50 caliber sniper rifle. (Honey badgers wont work, they don't give a shit!)

Image


Find some cooler pad.

I like duracool pads.

http://www.simsupply.com/Items/426741

If your area does'nt have them, find a national chain DIY hardwear store and see if they will order some for you.

This may save you shipping cost. I use home depot.

Cut the first pad 30x13 inches.

Roll this pad into a tube and silicone or hand stitch the seam.

This will give you a tube 13 inches tall.

Image

Because the bucket tapers out towards the top, you will not need to line the bucket with shade clothe.

Image

Image

Cut a second piece of pad 24x13 inches and roll into a tight tube.

You wont need to seam this one.

Image

Sleeve this inside the first tube.

The reason for the double pad is to have a wide space to set the drip line on and adds more evap surface.

Image

1/2 inch Drip irrigation line works ok to soak your pads, but poly hose is more flexible and you can buy it by the foot.

I like the T connectors that fit inside the line. I cut the ends of the T shorter so I could keep the holes in the line close enough together so there wont be a dry strip on the pads.

This hose is 3/8 inch.

Image

Image

The holes in the line need to be uniform for an even flow on the pad.

Drlling holes works, but I found that heating a piece of wire melts a nice, more uniform hole.

I used a piece of 10 gauge copper wire.

Heat the wire with a torch, or the burner on your stove, then press through the line.

Sliding the wire in and out till it cools will make a happy hole! (Don't even think about it Yggy, this is serious!)

Image

Image

Image

To pump the water through the line, buy a pump.

This is the solar pump.

http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-powered-fountain-pump-66093.html

I like this pump instead because if it's cloudy, it will still let the cooler work.

Image

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

The 3/8 inch line fits this pump perfectly.

Nice even flow of water.

Image

Image

Image

When the lid is put on, the line will be pinched between the lid and the pad, so it wont move around.

FANS!

The key to a good cooler is a powerful fan.

CFM=cubic feet per minute.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g36/c435/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans_by_CFM.html

I used this one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8556/fan-533/Delta_120_x_38mm_High-Speed_Fan_-_19048_CFM_AFB1212SHE-CF00.html?tl=g36c435s1108&id=TMxuD2fh

It uses more power, but makes the bucket cooler very effective.

Calculate the cubic footage of the space to be cooled, then get a fan that will replace the air inside the space every 3 to 5 minutes.

I use a single fan cause it suits my design perfectly.

Cut a hole in the lid of the bucket to mount the fan.

I put mine on the bottom of the lid to keep the unit compact and to make ducting easier.

Image

Any 120mm fan will fit inside the top of the pad tube.

I spliced the wires from the fan to the wires from the pump. (both are 12volt)

Then ran the wire out through one of the holes in the side of the bucket.

Now with the lid on the bucket, I used a 4 inch septic line connector gooped to the lid over the fan.

Image

Image

Image

Now you can use 4 inch septic line to duct the air into the space to be cooled. You don't need to glue these piceces together.

Image

These parts are at the hardwear store.

Outside temp!

Image

Air temp coming from the cooler!

Image

Water temp inside the bucket!

Image

This cooler uses 2 gallon of water every 5 hours.

It uses about 1.45amps per hour.

My 105AH deep cycle battery will run this cooler for 47 hours before needing to be recharged.

So running 4 or 5 hours a day, it will let you nap in the hottest part of the day, all week without recharging the battery.

If you need more cooling than this, build the box cooler.

You will need to vent the air out of the space for circulation.

HAPPY NAPPING!!!
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: Re:

Postby FIGJAM » Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:32 pm

Last year people tried to make the bucket cooler do more than it was ment to do, with moderate success.

The main problems seemed to be a powerful enough fan and how to duct the air into the space.

My box cooler worked great and I never use anything but the low speed on the fan.






NOW INTRODUCING THE UNICOOLER!!!!!!!


No duct work needed!!!

Build a box 17wx30hx9d.

Image

If you cant build a simple box, try to find something waterproof with roughly the same dementions or this.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PMI25M/bestprice2010a-20

If you can find something that does'nt have tapered sides it will work better.

Cut a hole for the vent cover. ($11.00)

Image

Image

Cut a hole for the fan. (Endless breeze fan $60-$80)

Image

I used 100% clear silicone caulk to stick these to the box.

Image

The vent louvers are facing down and into the box to keep the water channeled toward the inside.

I got some angle trim and siliconed pieces to the inside of the box to act as a pad retainer.

Image

Image

This is the pump.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

Image

The pvc just lays on the top edge of the pads.

Then I went to the bin (16489-j "junk" subheading A "awsume") and found some handles.

Image

8)

Then make an air tight lid.(figure it out)

Finished cooler looks like this.

Image

Image

I call it the universal cooler cause you just shove the pad side against any opening in a tent, bus, travel trailer, yurt, or playpod and it will cool up to 3000 cubic feet of space. You can even set it on a table outside for use.

Add some foam stickon wheather stripping for a good seal around a window.

Fill it with 7gals. of water for 8hrs. of cooling. So once a day depending on how much you use it.

105ah battery will run this all week on low.

You may have to recharge if you use medium or high speed on the fan.

I'm confident that this will cool even a school bus without useing a genny and its a lot quieter than an air conditioner.

As always I'll try to answer any questions you may have.


HERE'S TO A MORE COMFORTABLE BURN!!!

That being said, scroll down to garyt's design on this page.

http://eplaya.burningman.com/viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&start=1590

By making it wider, he can take full advantage of the endless breeze fan on high.

The unicoolerI designed tended to restict air flow due to not enough intake area.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:33 pm

This is the box cooler made of wood instead of FRP.

Image

Image

After the box is glued and screwed, I used regular painters caulk on the interior joints before putting a heavy coat of the Henrys elastomer roof coating on the whole thing to seal it inside and out.

Image

To install the intake panels, I ran a heavy bead of 100% silicone caulk on the registers and screwed them in place.

Make sure these are all the same distance from the top as they will support the pvc for the water, and to get an even flow you'll want them the same height.

Image

Image

When I installed the pads, I added some wire to secure the pads to the registers.

14 gauge copper or bailing wire will work for this.

It will make sure that ALL the air has to pass through the wet pads.

Image

The wire goes through the pad at the corners of the registers and bends up on the outside of the cooler.

Image

The lid is hinged on the side away from the fan for easy filling.

I added some weather stripping (siliconed) for a good seal, and a small chain so the lid would'nt tweek the small hinges.

Image

Image

Image

Once the endless breeze fan and the pump get here I can finish this cooler.

This is my favorite pump.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

It will hold 12 gals of water and there's room for a case of beer in the bottom.

It will use about 3/4s of a gallon of water per hour on the low fan speed.

It will cool a space up to 3000 cubic feet on high.

Power needed will be...

12 volt DC

1.5amps on low speed (250cfm)

1.92amps on medium speed (500cfm)

2.82amps on high speed! (900 cfm= to 10mph breeze)


Hope this helps you enjoy your BURNNNNNNNNNNN!!! 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:35 pm

POWER!!!

These designs are all 12 volt DC.

So any 12 volt DC source will run them.

The costco 115AH marine battery should run any of these designs 5 or 6 hours a day for the whole week without having to recharge.(price, $90)

I use a Deka 105AH AGM deep cycle battery. (price $240, but I get factory seconds for $140)

You can also go solar!

From what I've read, a 50 watt panel is what you'll need, but I don't have any practical experience with solar.

And finally, keep it simple!

This is an easy project, and although there is a lot of good technical information in this thread, you don't need all of it to build a cooler.

I'll be refering interested Burners to this page so that they won't have to start at the beginning! 8)

Big thanks to Yellowdog and everyony who has contributed to this monster thread!

Edit: The pad size for the first tube on the bucket cooler is 30"s, not 33"s! :oops:
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Rainbowmama » Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:23 pm

So excited to finally get to a Burn! It's going to be our first year, we are camping with very seasoned burners, but would like to be self sufficient so I'm starting the learning and research early (since we have never ever camped). We are going with either a hexayurt or a 5m canvas bell tent like this Image

At least 2x the money, but 10x the utility of a hexayurt post burn, and since I'm desperately trying to avoid renting an rv @$3k, anything less is gravy. So my question is what do I need to cool this tent? Adequate sleep will be crucial to avoid crankiness, so I've got to keep hubby reasonably cool for sleep. I'm happy to build either cooler, box or bucket. How would I get the cool air into the tent from the bucket? Or from the unicooler or box? The windows are quite low. Will the vents in the top of the tent be sufficient? Thanks for helping a virgin get it right! We are in north San Diego. So we will test it out before heading to the playa.
Rainbowmama
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:15 am
Burning Since: 2014

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:11 pm

Try to calculate the cubic footage of the space being cooled.

The bucket is good up to 600 cu.ft.

If the tent isn't shaded, then build the box cooler.

If the floor is not attached to the tent, I would just raise the "skirt" and drape it around the fan.

I would still set it up to blow directly on the bed so you can nap anytime during the day.

The top vents look plenty big enough. 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby MacGlenver » Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:21 pm

Rainbowmama wrote:So excited to finally get to a Burn! It's going to be our first year, we are camping with very seasoned burners, but would like to be self sufficient so I'm starting the learning and research early (since we have never ever camped). We are going with either a hexayurt or a 5m canvas bell tent like this

At least 2x the money, but 10x the utility of a hexayurt post burn, and since I'm desperately trying to avoid renting an rv @$3k, anything less is gravy. So my question is what do I need to cool this tent? Adequate sleep will be crucial to avoid crankiness, so I've got to keep hubby reasonably cool for sleep. I'm happy to build either cooler, box or bucket. How would I get the cool air into the tent from the bucket? Or from the unicooler or box? The windows are quite low. Will the vents in the top of the tent be sufficient? Thanks for helping a virgin get it right! We are in north San Diego. So we will test it out before heading to the playa.


I'd suggest going with the box setup. That is a BIG tent. Also, I'd recommend draping some aluminet over the top to help out your swamp cooler. My 10x15 canvas tent without shade was not sufficiently cooled by the bucket (though I also dont think I had the pad arranged correctly).
"just two indecisive cowboys, trying to play a word game." - piehole
"Just apply intelligence and discretion and you should be able to get away with just about anything." - Ugly Dougly
User avatar
MacGlenver
 
Posts: 842
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:11 pm
Burning Since: 2011
Camp Name: I call this one 'Old Gregg'

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Tue Jan 21, 2014 6:33 pm

I think you needed more cooler Mac.

At those dimensions you were at about 900cu.ft.

Too much for the bucket, especially without shade. 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby MacGlenver » Tue Jan 21, 2014 6:47 pm

FIGJAM wrote:I think you needed more cooler Mac.

At those dimensions you were at about 900cu.ft.

Too much for the bucket, especially without shade. 8)


Yeah, I knew i was risking it being under-powered. I ended up sticking the ducting up my kilt while lounging under our shade structure. I was the envy of the camp :)
"just two indecisive cowboys, trying to play a word game." - piehole
"Just apply intelligence and discretion and you should be able to get away with just about anything." - Ugly Dougly
User avatar
MacGlenver
 
Posts: 842
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:11 pm
Burning Since: 2011
Camp Name: I call this one 'Old Gregg'

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby TT120 » Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:15 pm

I used my bucket cooler mostly when I was just lounging around camp. I'd just point the vent at me sitting in my chair. I only really took one afternoon nap the whole when I needed it blowing inside the tent.
Life's a bitch, then you go to Burning Man - Unjonharley

W6BJD
User avatar
TT120
 
Posts: 1307
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:43 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Burning Since: 2012
Camp Name: Barbie Death Village

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Canoe » Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:58 pm

Rainbowmama wrote:...We are going with either a hexayurt or a 5m canvas bell tent like this
Image
Will the vents in the top of the tent be sufficient?

I love the look. Even if it reminds me of the days of getting dragged out of bed before the sunrise.

Yes, the vents in the top of the tent will be sufficient. Sufficient for:
  • letting the hot dry dusty air to leave the tent, so the cool moist dust free air from the swamp cooler can come in. And,
  • for letting the hot dusty air to blow back in when you're away (and the swamp-cooler is off) or the wind picks up
    (as in, 75 mph picks up; as in, can pick up tents and relocate them)
    read through https://eplaya.burningman.com/viewtopic ... 77&t=67809 and make your choice.
    And possibly something like pool noodles to stick in the vents to minimize dust coming in during a big blow.
    Do close or cover everything you don't want coated with dust.
  • and possibly sufficient for catching enough of a strong wind that it might rip the top of your tent open.
    • do see if you can find someone who was had the same type, brand & model of tent on the playa during a strong wind.
    • you might want/be-able to add some reinforcing stitching around those vents and up to the top pole.
And possibly some reinforcement where guy-lines attach. And corners.
Last edited by Canoe on Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Odd. No bears to watch in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries.
.
... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.
User avatar
Canoe
 
Posts: 2095
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:01 pm

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Canoe » Tue Jan 21, 2014 10:08 pm

And although a single guy-line is sufficient in most conditions, for the one on either side of the opening, and off the peak of the opening, to prevent them blowing back and forth too much in a strong wind, consider where you might want to have two guy-lines per attachment point; allows you to limit how far it can move without having it over-tightened. Do it right and you'd still have a clear channel straight into the center of the entrance.
https://eplaya.burningman.com/viewtopic ... 87#p993637

Here's the full treatment, adding a guy-line where you've already got one, but each going to a different peg. If I've got it right, only one more tent peg than stock. Notice the lines going from out to the side up to the peak over the entrance.

You can see how tent pegs like Figjam's lagbolts with two chain links can make for far less chance of a stubbed toe, or far less worse if someone falls on them.

less whipping around in wind.jpg


And some people swear by having a bit of something stretchy between the buy-line and the peg, so it can give a little in a heavy wind.

IF AT ALL POSSIBLE: find someone who's had the same tent on playa, so can find out how to make it work well, so you're not the guinea pig.

p.s.
When you're on the playa, ask someone who knows which way to NOT point the entrance of your tent.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Odd. No bears to watch in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries.
.
... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.
User avatar
Canoe
 
Posts: 2095
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:01 pm

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Milayna » Wed Jan 22, 2014 1:52 pm

Hey Figjam!! so this year I will finally be building your bucket cooler, as last year I was INSANELY jealous of my campmates who built one.

Here's my question- Do you have any photos, or further instruction on the part where you connect the wires to the actual battery? I feel like I have a firm grasp on the whole thing except for that part. I won't lie when it comes to electronics I'm pretty clueless :?

I'm just not clear on exactly how the wires connect to each other and the battery.....THANK YOU!!!!!!! :) :)
User avatar
Milayna
 
Posts: 321
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:21 pm
Burning Since: 2012

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Rainbowmama » Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:28 pm

Volume of the bell tent is approx 690 cubic feet. If I get the inner tent that divided it half, and positioned the cooler on that side, where the bed is, we should be ok with the bucket, which would allow me to duct it toward the mesh window right?? It's only 2ft high at the windows so the airflow has to be low. Can the box cooler be built low to the ground and be effective? I got the idea for the bell tent here on eplaya, where it gets some rave reviews, and according to those reviews (and many I their site) does beautifully in high wind. I admit to knowing absolutely nothing. I have so much to learn and an rv would be infinitely easier, but hubby hates them, and I've never done adventure the easy way, only the awesome way :lol:
Rainbowmama
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:15 am
Burning Since: 2014

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Canoe » Wed Jan 22, 2014 4:06 pm

Note that the bucket cooler has its cooled air coming out the top, where you'd have to duct it down to get into the tent through one of those windows anyways. You can duct that to whatever height you like, as long as it is not too high (issues getting from a bucket cooker on the ground to push the air up to an RV window for example).

Same for ducting the output from a uni-cooler or box cooler (the foil-sided bubble-wrap, reflectix, works well, taped together with aluminum foil tape). If built too low to the ground, you have to watch out for still having a water reservoir that is deep enough to keep the pump submerged and with enough run time. I'd be inclined to build one in the proportions that we know work and work well, then simply duct the output. The big advantage of the box versions, is the fan that is used.

Keeping the other windows and the door closed, such that the hot air (that rises to the top) goes out the roof vents, works well as the incoming cooled air stays down low where you are while it's the hottest air that is getting exhausted.

A bucket cooler will be better than no cooler, but without shade, the tent will soak up heat, from direct sunlight and from re-radiated heat. So with a bucket cooler you'll be struggling, with a box version you'll do a much better job, and with the Endless Breeze fan, it won't be a power hog either.
Last edited by Canoe on Wed Jan 22, 2014 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Odd. No bears to watch in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries.
.
... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.
User avatar
Canoe
 
Posts: 2095
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:01 pm

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby TT120 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 4:10 pm

TT120 wrote:I spliced longer wires to the pump and fan and then just connected them both to the battery. Works fine.

Image
Life's a bitch, then you go to Burning Man - Unjonharley

W6BJD
User avatar
TT120
 
Posts: 1307
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:43 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Burning Since: 2012
Camp Name: Barbie Death Village

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Wed Jan 22, 2014 5:03 pm

Rainbowmama wrote:Volume of the bell tent is approx 690 cubic feet. If I get the inner tent that divided it half, and positioned the cooler on that side, where the bed is, we should be ok with the bucket, which would allow me to duct it toward the mesh window right?? It's only 2ft high at the windows so the airflow has to be low. Can the box cooler be built low to the ground and be effective? I got the idea for the bell tent here on eplaya, where it gets some rave reviews, and according to those reviews (and many I their site) does beautifully in high wind. I admit to knowing absolutely nothing. I have so much to learn and an rv would be infinitely easier, but hubby hates them, and I've never done adventure the easy way, only the awesome way :lol:


How big is this "window"?

I think you need a unicooler, but increase the size of the air intake vent to 20"x20".

That way the cooler will be inside the tent and you can just set it with the air intake against the window.

This is the larger unicooler that I made for the new playapod and you can set it up the same way in your tent.

Hatch open to show the air intake, same as your window.

Image

Inside the pod where the cooler and controls are.

Image

Image

Image

It would have been nice to have the box version, but this way I don't have it hanging off the back of the pod or stopping the door from fully opening. 8)

Put some tape over the mesh so that it leaves a 20"x20" opening on your tent window.

When you enter the hot tent, turn the fan on high and it will blow out the hot air in one minute, then turn it down to low or med. 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Milayna » Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:49 pm

Thank you TT120!! That's very helpful! :)
User avatar
Milayna
 
Posts: 321
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:21 pm
Burning Since: 2012

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby TT120 » Wed Jan 22, 2014 8:14 pm

Milayna wrote:Thank you TT120!! That's very helpful! :)

No problem Milayna! Just make sure to keep the polarity correct for the fan and the pump. All the positives go together and all the negatives go together.
Life's a bitch, then you go to Burning Man - Unjonharley

W6BJD
User avatar
TT120
 
Posts: 1307
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:43 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Burning Since: 2012
Camp Name: Barbie Death Village

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Rainbowmama » Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:00 am

You all are so helpful! I wish I knew the easy answer for which is the best way to go....tent or hexayurt. Either way I'm excited to build a cooler :-)
Rainbowmama
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 1:15 am
Burning Since: 2014

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Bounce530 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:11 pm

Ducting- we just ran a dryer hose into the tent, and used a clothes pin to clip the end of the hose to the top of the tent. It would blow around a bit, but our tent is so small it didn't matter. ( I took a small plastic flower pot and cut it down to connect the dryer duct to the PVC. The angle of the pot made it fit perfectly)

wires to battery- Basically did the same as TT.
Image
What other people think about you is none of your business.
User avatar
Bounce530
 
Posts: 1580
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:26 am
Location: 6:30 & H
Burning Since: 2007
Camp Name: BRC Guardian docking pad

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Bounce530 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:23 pm

Since we're talking buckets;

Image

It's still an original coupon if you print it yourself...right??
What other people think about you is none of your business.
User avatar
Bounce530
 
Posts: 1580
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:26 am
Location: 6:30 & H
Burning Since: 2007
Camp Name: BRC Guardian docking pad

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Canoe » Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:49 pm

Bounce530 wrote:Ducting- ...I took a small plastic flower pot and cut it down to connect the dryer duct to the PVC. The angle of the pot made it fit perfectly

Good to know!

How did that little solar cell work out?
Odd. No bears to watch in the dump. Oh well, lets go across the road & pick blueberries.
.
... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.
User avatar
Canoe
 
Posts: 2095
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:01 pm

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:52 pm

I think that was on the harbor freight solar pump.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Bounce530 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 5:25 pm

Correct, the solar panel is for the HF fountain pump. It worked 'ok' but didn't pump the water fully around the drip hose. Although I think my holes on the drip tube may be to large, or too close together.

The flower pot "adapter"
Image
What other people think about you is none of your business.
User avatar
Bounce530
 
Posts: 1580
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:26 am
Location: 6:30 & H
Burning Since: 2007
Camp Name: BRC Guardian docking pad

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby FIGJAM » Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:19 pm

Bounce, that pump does alright under perfect conditions, but only then.

A little dust on the panel, the slightest cloud cover, or the panel not pointed directly at the sun and your cooler won't get the full effect.

Lots of 12 volt pumps online for $8 to $20.

The ones I use are up to almost $50 now from $14, but they have lasted 4 years so far. 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me
User avatar
FIGJAM
 
Posts: 8555
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby Bounce530 » Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:57 pm

Gotcha, I'm going to update the pump before the next journey.
What other people think about you is none of your business.
User avatar
Bounce530
 
Posts: 1580
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:26 am
Location: 6:30 & H
Burning Since: 2007
Camp Name: BRC Guardian docking pad

Re: cooling your tent or van

Postby tatonka » Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:57 am

made the shut off switch for my cooler , no when the water gets to low , the littleman in the boat tugs the connection loose and the pump wont burn up :)

Image
winners never quit , quitters never win

4 wheels move the body , two wheels moves the soul

Music is the great healer of the soul
User avatar
tatonka
 
Posts: 1869
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:28 pm
Location: oregon
Burning Since: 2013
Camp Name: Rancho Deluxe

PreviousNext

Return to Keeping Cool

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: bigjim242 and 2 guests