CapSmashy wrote:An EU2000 is a clean wave generator for electronics.
Token wrote:The Honda 2k is rated at ~ 1700 VA for continuous operation.
With your lamps and motor gizmo eating up ~ 700 VA of juice plus the altitude derating of 10% on the generator you are using up ~ half the available power.
Even a relatively small additional load will force the generato to rev up full throtle. This can be anoying since it increases the noise a lot.
Running two eu2k generators half load is always better wrt noise than a single at full throttle.
You can build a cable for about $20 worth of parts. Lots of instructions on the net.
Same for the external fuel tank. I ordred two extra gas caps from Honda and drilled n tapped them for a fuel line fitting. A 5 gallon can runs my two eu2k genies all day.
gyre wrote:My understanding is that different size EUs can be used together.
This seems like a bigger advantage than being true sine wave to me.
I like the 3000.
It seems more rugged and specs only slightly louder.
I suspect it may be less annoying in nvh, which is harder to quantify.
Maybe a 3000 and a smaller one?
bm_cricket wrote:CapSmashy wrote:An EU2000 is a clean wave generator for electronics.
I've seen laptops fry with the EU2000 series... *shrug*
Captain Goddammit wrote:...You can run a laptop on shitty power...
AntiM wrote:MyLarry runs his laptop of the 12V DC of his semi, through an inverter and back through the DC adapter. May be a POS Gateway, but it lives in the semi, in a bracket, running near full time. Six years and counting. That's hardly "clean" power!
Captain Goddammit wrote:Lol, ironically, appliances like fridges are MORE likely to have trouble with crappy, square-wave AC power than a laptop!
Appliances with electric motors that see heavy start-up current, like a fridge, tend to get hot and run sluggishly when not fed sine-wave AC.
Microwaves have trouble on "dirty" AC too.
Funny you trust a UPS so unconditionally when it's just another inverter itself. I bet if you looked at it's output on a scope it's not likely to be better than that of the Honda's inverter.
Captain Goddammit wrote:A multimeter will show you the voltage but not the waveform; "dirty" (more of a squarewave) power looks identical on a voltmeter to "clean" (closer to perfect sinewave) AC.
Utility company supplied power is almost always quite "clean" as far as waveform goes. It's perfectly safe, a pure sinewave can't hurt you. Grab both wires and see for yourself!
OK just kidding...
So... DON'T do that...
gyre wrote:Voltage changing when other things are turned on or off, especially rising, is a sign of a neutral issue.
A drop can be caused by overloaded wiring.
A spike is likely to be a neutral issue.
It can go as far as 240 volts.
That issue needs to be fixed.
Usual cause is corrosion at the neutral connection where the utility connects, or at the pole.
A voltmeter will check for this.
When the neutral fails, the other circuits act as conductors for the load and change the voltage, especially things with large loads.
Check the opposing circuits on the fusebox.
See if a fridge or microwave on the opposite circuit makes voltage go up.
It might even go down drastically.
Spiking up is more dangerous and better confirmation.
It may be worth checking connections to receptacles or even replacing crucial ones (computer).
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