HexaYurts

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.

Re: HexaYurts

Postby otakup0pe » Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:38 pm

I'm about to dust my yurt off. We foiled-over the BFD hinges when we first made it two years. Last year the hinges still seemed solid - I'm hoping they still are this year! Going forward we will be keeping our hexayurt in a BMorg shipping container. That should make the between-season preparation interesting as it will have to be done partially before we leave the playa and partially after we arrive the next year. Has anyone else done this ?
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby maladroit » Sun Aug 03, 2014 10:25 pm

mauricioo wrote:I am building a brand new yurt this year and wanted to cover the outside with some type of fun skin or paper, more specifically the roof. Anyone has done that in the past? Any suggestions?
Thx!


If you understand the principle of why a hexayurt works, then what is the point of blocking the highly reflective aluminum surface you're paying a lot of money to have?
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:35 am

I don't recall and we haven't pulled that stuff out for testing yet; but it is one of those small $99.00 units we got at Home Depot and I think they say it cools one room; I'll venture a guess that it's about 5,000 BTU, but it cools both rooms of our yurt easily. If we ever added a third room (i.e. if I can talk my partner into it ;) ) I think it would cool that one too. We'd probably need a fan to help with the air circulation, but I don't think we'd need another a/c unit.

GreyCoyote wrote:JKiska: how much AC BTU are you running to cool those structures? Really curious of the thermodynamics of a large megayurt like yours. :mrgreen:
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:38 am

We have never had a year when we didn't have to re-tape our yurts. But we have never covered the bi-directional tape with foil tape either.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Swope904 » Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:08 am

Last edited by Swope904 on Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby lucky420 » Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:21 am

maladroit wrote:
mauricioo wrote:I am building a brand new yurt this year and wanted to cover the outside with some type of fun skin or paper, more specifically the roof. Anyone has done that in the past? Any suggestions?
Thx!


If you understand the principle of why a hexayurt works, then what is the point of blocking the highly reflective aluminum surface you're paying a lot of money to have?



RMAX is used UNDER siding when building a house. So I don't understand this train of thought maladroit. I've been spray painting some of my outward facing sides. I like spray paint because it goes on in thin layers...white paint makes the blue lettering turn pink
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby watchyourfeet » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:54 am



No, definitely not.Those are just styrofoam and will almost certainly get destroyed out there, causing a giant moopy mess.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby maladroit » Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:03 am

lucky420 wrote:RMAX is used UNDER siding when building a house. So I don't understand this train of thought maladroit. I've been spray painting some of my outward facing sides. I like spray paint because it goes on in thin layers...white paint makes the blue lettering turn pink


But this isn't a house...the reflective surface is a large part of the reason we use this material.

We could go back to the thread where the guy wanted to line the inside of his tent with foil.

Or we could talk about how effective it would be to take Aluminet and spray it with paint.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby GreyCoyote » Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:21 am

Lucky: What we call "light" and "heat" are both forms of energy... just in different parts of the spectrum. If a material reflects energy in those bands (as foil-coated R-max does), then it doesnt matter a whole lot if its covered with something else or not. R-max, even under siding, reflects, insulates, and prevents air exchange, and thereby prevents, energy (heat) transfer in/out of the structure.

Going back to grade school for a minute: remember there are three basic methods of energy transfer: conduction, convection, and radiation. R-max is effective at stopping all three, which, in addition to the structural properties, makes a great yurt. Painting the outside any color impacts these characteristics somewhat over the shiny foil. The difference may not be a lot for light colors, but as they get darker things will visibly change for the worse.

Hope this helps. :mrgreen:
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby lucky420 » Mon Aug 04, 2014 3:55 pm

you guys are making my head spin :mrgreen:

I didnt completely cover my panels and the paint is somewhat groovy. I stayed away from black because black absorbs heat, no?

Anyhoo, dusty hugs to you both!
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby GreyCoyote » Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:23 pm

lucky420 wrote:you guys are making my head spin :mrgreen:

I didnt completely cover my panels and the paint is somewhat groovy. I stayed away from black because black absorbs heat, no?

Anyhoo, dusty hugs to you both!


Hugs back!

All this thermodynamics theory crap is making me thirsty. I'm off to the bar... And I'm buying! :mrgreen:
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Swope904 » Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:37 pm

watchyourfeet wrote:


No, definitely not.Those are just styrofoam and will almost certainly get destroyed out there, causing a giant moopy mess.


At this point i dont have a choice so hear to hope that doesnt happen 8)
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Freedyjay » Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:38 am

Thanks for all tape the advice, people! I ordered an extra roll just in case (a fourth one.)

I had a question for JKiska, but anyone feel free to jump in. Saw that you bring a smaller AC Unit (or maybe not small but affordable.) This might be ignorant but figured I'd ask... Do you power it with your own generator or does your camp have power? If the former, how powerful a generator do you bring? ( Do you need to refill the generator during the week?) If the latter, does that mean you just keep it on for short bursts to not take too much of your camp's energy?

Just curious as I have a friend staying at a camp "with power" but not sure what that means exactly (might mean a different thing at each camp in terms of how much is okay to use.)

School me, please!
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:03 am

We bring our own power, but our camp does have power as well. that is used for the freezers we need for root beer floats and this year fruit smoothies that we serve on the playa.

We bring two 4500 Watt generators. One to use, the other for backup. (We decided to do this after we had a generator crap out on us one year. Fortunately, someone else in our camp brought a spare one that year. That generator easily powers the AC, our personal chest freezer and chest refrigerator, the pump for our instant hot water shower, and a few other amenities.

I'm an early riser and my partner parties late and usually sleeps past 1:00pm, so one of the first things I do is turn the AC on in the morning. We have a $99.00 unit from Home Depot (5000 BTU I think) that can actually make the bedroom too cold; so it is never set above 5. We run our generator from as soon as I get up in the morning until sun down, then turn them off so as not to disturb people at night. The freezer and refrig will hold their cool for 24+ hours, so that doesn't pose any problem what so ever.

The first year, we brought a 1200 watt generator with the intention of it just being able to power the AC. We tested it here in LA before we left and it worked fine. However when we got to the playa, every time we tried to start the AC, the generator stalled. That's when we learned that the higher in altitude you go and the hotter the temperature, the less wattage the generator produces. (I posted a table that shows the rate of drop per degree and per 1000 feet altitude somewhere in this thread)
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby --Ever-- » Wed Aug 06, 2014 11:01 am

Need some advice on vents for the yurt.

We use a portable AC - the type that stands on it's own and has a large house to vent the hot air. Because this draws air from inside the yurt and then vents the air out, someone suggested that this will create negative pressure in the yurt and means that hot air and dust will be drawn into the yurt via any crack or furnace-filter vents we build.

The napkin science sounds correct, but how is this any different than something like a wall-mounted AC? If it instead draws air from the outside, isn't it in theory the same thing - pulling in hot air and dust?

In the end, my original question really comes down to if, and where, we should place our 1'x1' furnace vents on your new yurt with an AC like this.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:12 pm

From this article, I'd say the vents would make matters worse.

http://pittsburgh.cbslocal.com/2014/07/ ... than-fans/
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby GreyCoyote » Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:30 pm

The big difference is a window unit recircs the inside air and continually cools it, using outside air to dump the rejected heat. In this manner the window unit keeps the hot and cold sides completely separate. This is the way things are optimally done.

In contrast, e one-tube portables suck outside air into the occupied space, diluting the cold air, and then exhaust it out the tube. In other words you are constantly fighting a battle to cool air that is immediately reheated by the condenser and then dumped. This is pure waste.

Fact is, a 5k BTU window unit will easily outperform a one-tube portable more than twice its size. (Note that a two-tube unit performs almost as good as a window unit).

If you want AC on the playa, or anywhere else, go with a window unit (or a split system) if you have a choice. If no choice, then put your filtered air intake as close to the portable unit as possible so that hot outside air has a short trip to get to the intake point on your unit. (Think inches here, not feet).
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby --Ever-- » Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:12 pm

GreyCoyote wrote:The big difference is a window unit recircs the inside air and continually cools it, using outside air to dump the rejected heat. In this manner the window unit keeps the hot and cold sides completely separate. This is the way things are optimally done.

In contrast, e one-tube portables suck outside air into the occupied space, diluting the cold air, and then exhaust it out the tube. In other words you are constantly fighting a battle to cool air that is immediately reheated by the condenser and then dumped. This is pure waste.

Fact is, a 5k BTU window unit will easily outperform a one-tube portable more than twice its size. (Note that a two-tube unit performs almost as good as a window unit).

If you want AC on the playa, or anywhere else, go with a window unit (or a split system) if you have a choice. If no choice, then put your filtered air intake as close to the portable unit as possible so that hot outside air has a short trip to get to the intake point on your unit. (Think inches here, not feet).


Wow Coyote, thanks for putting this into perspective.

We didn't skimp on our portable AC. I think it's an 8k-BTU LG. If you honestly think a 5k or 8k BTU wall mount will noticeably outperform it, I'll get right on top of selling it and buying a new one.

Raises two questions:

Are the two-hose systems popular? Not sure I've seen them at Home Depot
Are vents mandatory/beneficial/neutral/negative for a yurt using a wall (or two-hose) AC?

Time to research the best way to wall mount one of those suckers.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Freedyjay » Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:23 am

And now onto staking it down. I was planning on doing the "rope halo" of a rope around the roof in a circle/oval and then guy lines connected to that connected to stakes (rebar?)

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Are there updated ways to stake it down that people prefer? (Taping little pieces of pvc tubing to the yurt and running rope/guy lines throught that?) Don't want my yurt becoming a shiny kite.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby lucky420 » Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:21 am

I use the tape anchor method and have never had a problem. My yurt stood up to 45 mph winds at a festival at Pyramid Lake a couple of years ago
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:12 am

We use the tape anchor method too. My original thought upon seeing the so called 'halo' method, was that it was a lazy man's way of anchoring the yurt and not near as elegant. I still believe that. Tape anchors are a bit tricky to master, but I believe they are the best method.

We have been using the hexayurts ever since we first discovered them at an exhibit at the pavilion at TheGreen Man (2007). We still use the original yurt we built for 2008 and have since added a room.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby desiredlogin » Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:43 pm

Thanks to the comments on this thread, I have ordered enough tape to do the whole yurt over again, if need be. Thanks!

I was thinking of adding some ventilation this year. Anybody have some tips for vents they use? I'm a bit lost in all of the options. I'm hoping to cut a hole in the wall or roof, cover it with a vent/filter. Just not sure exactly what kind of vent or filter I should be looking for.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Luigi » Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:26 am

OK - I have taken the plunge into building a 6 foot stretch yurt using 2 inch r-max. Like the guy in the video "six inch tape" it will be foldable, and my question to you all is about staking it down. Since it is a small one, I would like to use a halo with 6 down ropes to stakes, is that enough?
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:12 am

6 Stakes are enough. Use adequate stakes.

Why 2" panels???? Never mind. I don't really care. It's way more than you need. 1" works wonderfully well, it's lighter and easier to transport, easier to work with and takes up less room for storage.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Swope904 » Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:37 am

Bought some 3" Bi-Filament tape. How many Yards do the stretch hex-yurts use?
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby lucky420 » Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:22 am

just measure each connection(where roof panels meet, where wall panels meet) then the tension ring around the top (connects roof to top of wall) then around the bottom (tape tarp to outside bottom of wall)

If you havent pretaped then measure each board at every side because all walls, roof pieces, doors, windows need to be pretaped.

so a plain 8 X 4 foot rmax board would take 24 feet of tape (8+8+4+4=24)
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Fan C » Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:24 am

we use a filter for central air/heat units. Any home improvement place should have quite a few sizes.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Swope904 » Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:33 am

lucky420 wrote:just measure each connection(where roof panels meet, where wall panels meet) then the tension ring around the top (connects roof to top of wall) then around the bottom (tape tarp to outside bottom of wall)

If you havent pretaped then measure each board at every side because all walls, roof pieces, doors, windows need to be pretaped.

so a plain 8 X 4 foot rmax board would take 24 feet of tape (8+8+4+4=24)


Okay I understand that. But I only need a single layer on all connections of tape? no need to double layer stuff?
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby lucky420 » Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:10 pm

no you dont need to double layer. Pretaping the exposed areas kind of acts like double taping a bit.
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Re: HexaYurts

Postby Elderberry » Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:52 pm

Freedyjay wrote:(Taping little pieces of pvc tubing to the yurt and running rope/guy lines throught that?) Don't want my yurt becoming a shiny kite.

There are NOT little pieces of pvc taped to the yurt. Those anchors are part of the main tape that goes across the entire seam. If you are not doing all of that in one full uncut piece of tape, you are compromising the security.

Also, the sun plays havoc on the tape. You will have approximately 1 1/4" of tape on each side holding the yurt on the vertical panels with the gap, and only 1 1/2" on the rest of the seams. 3" tape is, IMHO, not adequate.
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