By the wayâ€¦ copper prices are through the roof these days, so as much as Iâ€™d love, LOVE to make the boilerskin out of copper sheet, itâ€™s probably not gonna happen. So black iron and rivets seem the proper route.
LeChatNoir wrote:However, this means that the steam engine would need a one-way clutch as well, otherwise, you'd be cranking it as well if you used hand power.
Elliot wrote:I don't pretend to be able to follow all this engineerering you guys are doing, but Hub City sells an overrunning clutch that would do this job for you just fine. Part number 0331-00600. $167,- full retail. Goes on a 1 1/4 inch shaft and has a nice flat mounting flange on the outer part. If you can use one with agricultural six-splines instead, then you can get it at any Tractor Supply Co store for half the money -- called a PTO overrunning clutch.
Unjon, you reminded me of something I left out above: In a two speed tranny (any design, I suppose), one of the couplings can be replaced with an overrunning clutch -- a ratchet, yes. Hit fast gear and just let slow gear go clack clack clack....
That seeems to be where I'm heading with my KSR Wide Ratio Chain Gang.
Unjon, do you have any automatic transmissions from cars sitting around? Most of them have a "sprag clutch", which is a one-way no-clicking clutch. I worked on those 30 years ago, but now I don't have a single one around. I KNOW the Ford C-6 has a sprag, but I don't remember how it is configured.
(Hmmm... google "sprag" "Ford"...)
LeChatNoir wrote:Elliot wrote:I don't pretend to be able to follow all this engineerering you guys are doing, but Hub City sells an overrunning clutch that would do this job for you just fine. Part number 0331-00600. $167,- full retail. Goes on a 1 1/4 inch shaft and has a nice flat mounting flange on the outer part. If you can use one with agricultural six-splines instead, then you can get it at any Tractor Supply Co store for half the money -- called a PTO overrunning clutch.
This is very valuable information, indeed Elliot. This one is getting written down on the folder for sure. And things that go "clack clack clack" are double plus good. Man... eplaya is full of fine thinkers and tinkers alike.
So I've been thinking a lot on this current predicament and I may have hit upon a notion. I'll attempt to lay out my line of reasoningâ€¦ sort of circuitous, but a line none the less.
I want the flywheel to spinâ€¦ yes definitely must spin. I just canâ€™t not let it spin. I would cry, I think.
I want to be able to run PTO driven implements with both steam and human powerâ€¦ such as an aluminum can crusher. How much fun would it be to pull up to Recycle Camp and make quick work with some human powered, interactive smashin'?
If needed (or wanted) the vehicle should still be able to move via hand power. Everyone who was on the thing last your insisted, often with threat of bodily harm, that it retain this ability through the upgrade and I agree...
Direct drive to the axle would eliminate the option of running implements in place with steam, unfortunately. And it would require that all stops be made by the engine aloneâ€¦ no ability to dump the belt clutch and slam on the brakes. Which some of you may remember was a feature that allowed (much to everyoneâ€™s delight) our DPW friend, NotIt, to wait until the very last second before stopping at MASH Campâ€™s roadblock.
However, hooking the engine up to the flywheel presents several problems, including having to address the fact that, when hand pumping, without a one-way clutch, youâ€™d be pumping the engine as well as the PTO. And using a one-way clutch to solve this problem would remove the ability to engine brake.
Then I remembered something and went digging in my rusty box of spare parts and inspiration which stays tucked away in the corner.
The drive mechanism from the hayrake (the part that forms the Contraptionâ€™s rear end) had some big damn gears in it. These were part of a mechanism to engage and disengage the power to the raking tines. This consisted of two interlocking couplings, one of which was fixed and one of which could slide along the drive shaft and engage with the other. The sliding coupling was keyed, with a long piece of keystock, to the shaft, allowing it to always be locked in rotation with the shaft, yet slide back and forth. Pull a lever and engage the couplings and power went to the rake. Disengage the lever and the couplings slide apart and the raking stopped.
Hereâ€™s a rough idea of how it worked.
I could use this type of thing on the flywheel input side, allowing the steam engine to be disengaged without any muss or fuss when ever it was necessary.
The next problem is the gearing.
As stated earlier, I want to be able to go 5+ mph and keep the flywheel rpm lower. This is for both addressing the balance issues already mentioned and for keeping the banked energy low when steaming in order to not wring the guts out of the little engine when slowing down.
So another grain of thought shook loose in my noggan and I went out to the barn to look. Thereâ€™s room on the flywheel output shaft for multiple pairs of chain sprockets and room still to spare for the PTO drive stuff too. Prefect...
Now all I need is an additional pair of sprockets at the desired ratio sitting right beside the ones that are there currently. Simply switch chains to the appropriate set at the appropriate time and viola!. Switching a chain is a quick operation that doesnâ€™t even require crawling underneath. And when hand driving the PTO, since youâ€™re already standing still thereâ€™s no need to switch any of those chainsâ€¦ just leave the rear driveâ€™s belt clutch disengaged and pump away. The only time a chain switch would be necessary would be to actually move it with human power, which as Mozy pointed out would be under special circumstances.
Iâ€™ll post some pics to clarify soon, but suffice it to say that now (theoretically) the steam engine and the hand pump can each independently drive the rear axle, the PTO, or both with any problems that I can see at this time.
fciron wrote:Is that PyroBeat system programmed for each song or does it use an algorithm to generate the patterns (like a visualizer)?
How do you get the propane flow without tank frosting issues? Multiple large tanks, hot water baths, how?
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