cooling your tent or van

[klondike-SD]

The cheap 3W pump does appear to work - using it with a cooler based on the 23 Gallon RubberMaid trashcan. Takes a few minutes to fully saturate the pad, but seems to keep up fine after that. Because it's inexpensive enough, I'm going to take a spare pump with me to Burning Man just as a backup.

Water Pump Assembly.JPG

another inexpensive pump that might work:

http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-14004996-dc12v_3w_submersible_water_pump_aquarium_fountain_pond_pump_.html


Flow rate is a little bit low, but cheap and low power consumption.

Specifications:

Input Voltage: DC12 V
Power: 3W
Flow Rate: Max. 200L / H (44GPH)
Hmax.: 6.6 feet / 2 meters
Outlet Diameter: Approx. 8mm
Dimension (L x W x H): Approx. 1.5 x 1.3 x 1.1 inch
Cord Length: Approx. 46 inch
Material: Plastic

[klondike-SD]

In building my version of the large swamp cooler, I did come up with one potentially useful variation. The pad sticks to the hook side of Velcro very well, so I'm using some spare Velcro strips I had from another project to hold the pad against the inside of the vents. We'll see how well the adhesive holds up over time, but seems to work well otherwise.

velcro.JPG

[klondike-SD]

I have a working cooler! Thanks to everyone for all the tips and advice.

Aside from the Velcro trick I mentioned earlier, I also decided to use bungie cords to attach the fan rather than attaching it more permanently. WIth some foam weatherstripping around the fan hole, it seems to work fine and it's easier to fill with the fan removed.

fan side.JPG

[FIGJAM]

Fine job!!!

How come you're not filling from the top?

PLEASE everybody, keep your fans and pads as high on the container as possible!

You'll have more room for water and not have to refill as often.

[garyt]

Ok found and bought all the parts I need. Here is my design plan. Figjam, Im making it shorter and wider as you said so I can fit 2 register vent on the back side.

unicooler.jpg

[momodumpling]

Did some research and found that a simple evaporative fridge can keep your veggies fresh for 20 days!!!

Look at salution 1.

http://www.provident-living-today.com/Alternative-Refrigeration.html

The burlap in the water resivour on top will wick to the top edge, then gravity will continue to pull the water to soak the burlap down the sides.

With this you may not need a cooler, but just a fan to keep the air circulating in the yurt.

Hey thanks for researching on our behalf! The problem is, we have a LOT of produce. About 10 x 80quart coolers worth. And I'm struggling to see how it would all stack on those shelves and still be a cheaper project than building the Box Swamp Cooler. I do like that idea for dairy or drinks though!

We were planning on putting the produce inside the coolers that we already own, with some techni-ice that we already own (like ice gel packs that are meant to stay frozen for 5-7 days) and then putting them closed up, inside the cooled yurt, stacked up on four x twos to get the air circulating around it.

I did the calcs and our yurt is HUGE.... like 1.6k cubic feet (prism + pyramid), but we have the benefit of a power grid to plug into so I think we'll be sweet. Plus, we all just really want to build a swampy!

What do you think about raising the cooler up so the fan sits outside one of the yurt windows? Our windows are 12" x 12" and the fan is 12" so I think it'll work.. we would just need to stack the cooler onto something. I'm not exactly sure how high the windows are from the ground (4' high walls) so wouldn't want to build a taller box just in case we get it wrong.

[FIGJAM]

Momo, make one of the windows large enough for the fan to fit THROUGH and push the side of the cooler against the side of the yurt.

That way the controls will be inside your structure and have a better seal.

[FIGJAM]

Ok found and bought all the parts I need. Here is my design plan. Figjam, Im making it shorter and wider as you said so I can fit 2 register vent on the back side.

unicooler.jpg

Perfect!!!

Let me know how it turns out.

[Canoe]

I think he has a pull down door on that van, so he's filling a 2.5' gap at the bottom of the door.
No way to vent at the top.

Exactly, which is why my suggestion.
Make the six inch hole in the 2.5' spacer that's across the bottom of the door. To that hole, connect a tube and run it up the inside to near the roof. Fan of the swamp-cooler forces cool moist air inside, envelope pressure increases, hottest inside air is at the top of the inside space, it goes through the tube and out the six inch hole. Make sure the exhaust of the six inch hole is not near the intake of the swamp-cooler.

[Canoe]

...Look at salution 1.http://www.provident-living-today.com/Alternative-Refrigeration.htmlThe burlap in the water resivour on top will wick to the top edge, then gravity will continue to pull the water to soak the burlap down the sides...

I looked at top-fed wicking in my search to try to omit the water pump.
The wicking material has a very low lift, then gravity keeps pulling the water down the material, so it keeps wicking more out of the top reservoir as the top of the material losses its water due to gravity. If gravity pulls the water down the material faster than it evaporates, you'll need a collection reservoir at the bottom (it's not limited, hence not regulated, by the material being saturated by water, but by gravity). And you'll need to periodically move the water from the lower reservoir to the top reservoir. There is no way to regulate the water flow. If the rate of evaporation is greater than what the wicking and gravity feed provides, you'll have unconditioned air sneaking through.
I tested this and gravity emptied the upper reservoir out and I ended up with the material drying out from the top down. Fortunately, I was testing with the bottom of the material sitting in an empty sink with an open drain, so no flood.
You could automate the water return to the top with water level switches and switched pumps, but you've introduced several potential points of failure. A timed pump, duration and frequency, could be determined and setup, but if temperatures changed and your evaporation rate changed, your timing values could be out side of that required.

And as the air in the room/structure where the cooler sits gets more humid, cooling rate lowers, until it stops. You need something to let the humidity escape. As that moisture escape has to be at a fast enough rate just to have cooling, let alone maximize it, that will mean you have to exchange the air to provide dry enough air to get evaporative cooling. For cooling efficiency, you'll not be able to count on "ambient" wind for air exchange, so you'll need a fan. If you're going to need to use a fan anyway, then they can use your design or a variation there of and get hot dry air forced by fan to maximize evaporative cooling.

For your designs where water is continuously pumped to the top and runs down through the filter, both wetting and cleaning, there is no problem. With ample wet available, cooling is limited by fan, air temperature and humidity. Cooling on demand by switch.

With a wicking filter design sucking water up from a bottom reservoir (from theOtherDoc), it's self regulating as it can't suck up more than it can use. So as long as it can wick up enough to keep cooling the drawn air flow rate, it's good to go. He's apparently found components that don't draw more than the wicking rate can feed.

To scale up your design for their use:
It could be problematic to know, and before hitting the playa, when you have or haven't reached a design limit of the air-flow rate vs. filter kept wet. But, you know your existing box design with air coming through a larger area of filter (more usable filter compared to the bucket/pail version) works well, and how large a structure it cools, and how much power it uses. I suspect their reliable course is to make enough units of that design to provide the cooling they require, rather than rely upon a scaled up design that is not playa-tested and could have unforeseen factors involved?
They can also turn a number of units on/off as their cooling needs change through the day. Multiple thermostats at cascaded set points would automate this.

Thoughts?

[klondike-SD]

I can add water from the top, but I'm trying to minimize splashing water into the fan mechanism. Not critical, but I'm a bit of a klutz sometimes and figured minimizing water getting into the fan itself was probably a good idea

Fine job!!!
How come you're not filling from the top?

[momodumpling]

To scale up your design for their use:
It could be problematic to know, and before hitting the playa, when you have or haven't reached a design limit of the air-flow rate vs. filter kept wet. But, you know your existing box design with air coming through a larger area of filter (more usable filter compared to the bucket/pail version) works well, and how large a structure it cools, and how much power it uses. I suspect their reliable course is to make enough units of that design to provide the cooling they require, rather than rely upon a scaled up design that is not playa-tested and could have unforeseen factors involved?
They can also turn a number of units on/off as their cooling needs change through the day. Multiple thermostats at cascaded set points would automate this.

Thoughts?

We have thought about building multiple bucket filters, basically because they look easier to handle... but Figjam has just contacted me re: a bigger, more powerful fan (since we have access to a grid) so potentially we could upscale the Box Cooler to cool that size space anyway. Our biggest issue is that none of us have ever built one of these before, and we have like, one day to get it right when we all gather at a house in Reno before the burn. BUT... I trust Figster with all my being right about now,he's been so super helpful, and you know what? If it doesn't work, we're still in a better position than we were last year because we'll have an insulated yurt and a fan at least!

I have full faith and I KNOW WE CAN DO IT!!

[captain mcguiver]

I can add water from the top, but I'm trying to minimize splashing water into the fan mechanism. Not critical, but I'm a bit of a klutz sometimes and figured minimizing water getting into the fan itself was probably a good idea

What about getting a gas funnel that you could pour water into, that would direct it away from the fan. Mount it inside, on the corner. ?

I too, am trying to bring a Figjam™ Swamp Cooler to the Playa this year. I've got my pump, Coolbreeze Fan in the mail, Evap material, I just can't find a decent bin to use at any home depot or Lowes. I'm considering using a trash can at this point, and angling the coolbreeze exhaust with some ducting, but I like the Flat Unicooler design. I too, am using a Box Truck for shelter. I was going to buy a 4x8 panel of RMAX Insulation as a door plug, pulling the truck door about 2.5" down on top. Then using one side for a door. the other side for the Unicooler intake. Exhaust is a concern as well. I like the idea of another duct to vent hot air from the inside top. I just wish I could spare the energy for another fan.

I'm also bringing supplies to make an A/C version if my DC fails and use a generator if I have too. The AC version could utilize one of those in-window dual fans. They blow pretty hard and you can find one to blow in and out independent of eachother. A little ducting and you have a motorized exhaust and intake.

[Canoe]

We have thought about building multiple bucket filters, basically because they look easier to handle... but Figjam has just contacted me re: a bigger, more powerful fan (since we have access to a grid) so potentially we could upscale the Box Cooler to cool that size space anyway. Our biggest issue is that none of us have ever built one of these before, and we have like, one day to get it right when we all gather at a house in Reno before the burn. BUT... I trust Figster with all my being right about now,he's been so super helpful, and you know what? If it doesn't work, we're still in a better position than we were last year because we'll have an insulated yurt and a fan at least!

I have full faith and I KNOW WE CAN DO IT!!

Upscaling isn't necessarily straightforward. Too fast an airflow and you could end up issues with dwell time through the filter or having to account for reducing velocity through the filter to get even flow across all of the filter, and then you're into baffles and/or velocity reduction before the filter.
His Box Cooler works. As is, and is easy to construct.
Did I see a link to an VAC version of that fan somewhere in these posts?

As to your yurt, forgive if it's been covered already, but: make a double door. As in, an outer door and an inner door with space to stand with whatever you're taking in or out. This minimized the cooled inside air from "falling out" when a single door is open, which also lets hot playa air to rush in to replace it.

[Canoe]

... I was going to buy a 4x8 panel of RMAX Insulation as a door plug, pulling the truck door about 2.5" down on top...

So your RMAX will be the width of the door while being the height of the RMAX sheet?
That means the length of an internal exhaust tube up to near the roof would be very short in length, so you're taking your exhaust air from the hottest air inside.
If you are trimming the RMAX sheet to fit the door, perhaps you could use the extra along with some foil tape to construct that ducting.

Consider having your door side as an upper and lower door. If you have to open the door in the heat to step in or out, only open the upper part, so the coolest air at the bottom of the van isn't lost as it spills out, keeping those inside more comfortable.

... I'm also bringing supplies to make an A/C version if my DC fails and use a generator if I have too...

Many generators output 12 VDC. Yours?
And it's likely faster (cheaper, quieter) to run the generator long enough to re-charge the battery for the DC setup. The DC fan & pump power needs are well known.
And your neighbours will thank you for not running the generator every time you want some cooling.

... The AC version could utilize one of those in-window dual fans. They blow pretty hard and you can find one to blow in and out independent of eachother. A little ducting and you have a motorized exhaust and intake.

I'm assuming you'd also run some ducting so the exhaust is pulling air away from near the intake.
Watch you don't run into slight speed differences between the fan motors. If the intake is faster than the exhaust, you've got a positive pressure within the van and you're fine. If the exhaust is faster then the intake, you can end up with a negative internal pressure, which will suck hot dry air inside through whatever cracks it can find. Plus, this is likely, even with perfectly matched motors, as the intake is pulling air through the filter and box so the air speed will be somewhat reduced, the exhaust side doesn't have that restriction. (the higher end air exchangers for houses use separate fans for the intake and exhaust sides; they're VDC fans so they're easy to control the speeds; pressure sensors detect the building's envelope pressure and adjust the speeds to keep that pressure slightly positive; way too much trouble to emulate for the playa, and no need)
Better to run both on intake and the air coming in will force air out through the exhaust.

... I just wish I could spare the energy for another fan...

for?

[captain mcguiver]

Canoe- thanks for the great ideas. The extra fan I wished I had power for was for the exhausting duct to help get air OUT of the truck in a 12v DC system. I see the issues with over-exhausting.

I keep thinking it will just be too hot inside the truck and I'm going to have to lift the 2.5' of door up and use that as a big vent for the top layer of hot air to spill out. The idea of having a Lip along the bottom is great. No need to spill cold air out everything you open the door. I almost want to make a crawling stairway so you have to get down on your hands and knees and make the door 3' above the bottom lip.

As for Power, unfortunately the people I'm camping with have no less than 4 generators on their camp plan. I feel sorry for the neighbors. Hopefully I can mitigate some noise pollution and attempt to show them the DC way when they find out that my Swamp Cooler is better than their AC units. Those generators will be there with or without me- I might as well develop a backup system if any of my components fail. I'm only bringing one 100Ah Deep Cycle out, and my Trickle charger is only like 3amps. I should be fine, but 9 years of Burning tells me something will crap out. I usually bring 2 of anything I really care about. A 120volt boxfan swap and dropping a 9$ AC pump into the bin means I'm up and running on stolen genny power. They wont miss the tiny juice I'm pulling.

I think the big deal on a box truck might be covering the roof more than anything. I checked out a local truck in the middle of the day and the roof would burn you to the touch. A bunch of reflectix on the roof would probably help cooling big time in a truck.

Oh yeah, am I wrong or is it possible to have the swamp cooler 100% inside the truck and behind the Rmax with only the Coolbreeze exposed pulling in dry, hot air from outside?

Oh I forgot to mention I'll have a 55 gallon water barrel for all of me and my GF. Think of the interesting things I can do with that so close to the swamp cooler.

[momodumpling]

Upscaling isn't necessarily straightforward. Too fast an airflow and you could end up issues with dwell time through the filter or having to account for reducing velocity through the filter to get even flow across all of the filter, and then you're into baffles and/or velocity reduction before the filter.
His Box Cooler works. As is, and is easy to construct.
Did I see a link to an VAC version of that fan somewhere in these posts?

As to your yurt, forgive if it's been covered already, but: make a double door. As in, an outer door and an inner door with space to stand with whatever you're taking in or out. This minimized the cooled inside air from "falling out" when a single door is open, which also lets hot playa air to rush in to replace it.

Totally see what you're saying...But I'm not the one suggesting improvements here. I was all set go ahead with the standard Box Cooler design and see how that works cooling our 1.6k cfm until FJ said that if we don't have to rely on battery power, we could go for a more powerful (and much cheaper) box fan that would cool our space on a much lower setting than we'd have to run the endless breeze. I'm just going on advice here! I'm not making up the rules! Haha!

I'm still thinking though, if we're well enough researched, and keep on checking in, what's the worst that could happen? It's all worth a shot, right?!

[momodumpling]

By the way, making multiple Box Cooler units may seem like a more reliable course, but we can't really afford it.. and that was the part of the point of trying a swamp cooler in our yurt instead of just forking out a fuckload of cash to a shared refrigerated truck. To be honest, the yurt doesn't HAVE to be fridge cold. Even if we can get it somewhat cooler than outside, it'll help.

[Colonel Monk]

Howdy:

I've been reading this thread with great interest, Mr Fig.

OK, I have two 7 gallon buckets that I'm going to use for my cooler. I got a couple of bulkhead fittings from bucketape.com and I'm going to use the second bucket as a water reservoir for filling. I'll just have a shutoff between the buckets to control the level.

I figured that I could get a little more cooling out the larger bucket. Which brings me to my question, oh wise one.

I'm going to be camping out in a 5x8 Uhaul trailer with a rollup door. So cubic feet 5.3 x 4.6 x 8 = 195 cubic feet. I was going to use an inline duct fan like thishttp://www.thelashop.com/inline-vent-duct-exhaust-fan-blower-4-inch-160-cfm.html?gclid=CJTjmLP6o7ECFeUBQAodrnw2bA because my camp has power, and I've got a fan controller that will let me adjust the airflow.

My two questions are this:

1) I've read here that the optimum flow is to replace the air every 3-5 minutes, so I need a fan with a range of 40 - 70 cfm, right? This fan will be overkill, but since I'm not limited by power I'd just as soon have more than I need than end up wanting.

2) I'm still a bit confused on the location of my buckets. I suppose, ideally they would go outside, and I'd duct the air in, correct? Else you might over saturate the incoming air with humidity, and turn it into a jungle. Yes?

My plan had been to build a plywood "block" at the bottom of the rollup door anyway, so I suppose that I'll be venting out the top of the door. I can install a pass thru thru this way.

Thanks for the help.

CM

[FIGJAM]

Momo, I designed the coolers so I would'nt have to have a generator to stay cool.

I often forget that if you have the power that there is an easier way.

You could buy a 5000 btu window AC unit for $100 and save yourself having to build anything or having to haul water for the unit.

Then you will want the space as sealed as possible.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&productId=203127491&storeId=10051

These are very dependable and quiet.

You would only run it about 12 hours a day as the nights get plenty cool enough.

[momodumpling]

Argh! See, when we started off on this idea, and I started posting in this thread, we didn't have power...then we found out we could use power from the French Quarter...so I mentioned it...although, I'd still prefer if we were self-reliant.

To me, it would just feel WRONG to be running an AC unit from a generator for 12 hours a day. (Even though the generator is likely to be reasonably far from us?) Fuck that! I don't want to be a slave to the gennie.

We have solar panels, we have batteries, I think we have the skills to build the Box Cooler in a day...the Endless Breeze fan says is exchanges 1000cfm, so to me, using this to exchange the yurt's 1.6k cf of air every 1-3 minutes is realistic, no?

Really grappling with my desire to just fucking build this shit, or not, now!

[FIGJAM]

Howdy:

I've been reading this thread with great interest, Mr Fig.

OK, I have two 7 gallon buckets that I'm going to use for my cooler. I got a couple of bulkhead fittings from bucketape.com and I'm going to use the second bucket as a water reservoir for filling. I'll just have a shutoff between the buckets to control the level.

I figured that I could get a little more cooling out the larger bucket. Which brings me to my question, oh wise one.

I'm going to be camping out in a 5x8 Uhaul trailer with a rollup door. So cubic feet 5.3 x 4.6 x 8 = 195 cubic feet. I was going to use an inline duct fan like thishttp://www.thelashop.com/inline-vent-duct-exhaust-fan-blower-4-inch-160-cfm.html?gclid=CJTjmLP6o7ECFeUBQAodrnw2bA because my camp has power, and I've got a fan controller that will let me adjust the airflow.

My two questions are this:

1) I've read here that the optimum flow is to replace the air every 3-5 minutes, so I need a fan with a range of 40 - 70 cfm, right? This fan will be overkill, but since I'm not limited by power I'd just as soon have more than I need than end up wanting.

2) I'm still a bit confused on the location of my buckets. I suppose, ideally they would go outside, and I'd duct the air in, correct? Else you might over saturate the incoming air with humidity, and turn it into a jungle. Yes?

My plan had been to build a plywood "block" at the bottom of the rollup door anyway, so I suppose that I'll be venting out the top of the door. I can install a pass thru thru this way.

Thanks for the help.

CM

For that trailer, I would get a 4x8 sheet of 2" styrofoam and make a panel with a 4' tall door in it for that opening at the back.

Prefab this so that when you get on site, you just stand it in the opening and pull the door down on top of it, and hold the door down with some bungees

Then you can cut intake and exit vents in it for the cooler.

The faster the air exchange the cooler the space will be,

That fan has a 4" intake.

Perfect!!!

Build the bucket cooler just as designed, but instead of mounting a fan on the lid, use the same ducting and the intake on the fan should fit perfectly in the septic 90.

The hole in the styrofoam will help support the fan so your bucket won't fall over from the wieght of the fan.

This will save you living space inside the trailer and the extra materials for the ducting that you had in mind.

[FIGJAM]

Momo, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

This shit is so much FUN!!!!

All designs have their pros and cons.

Build the cooler. I'll be here to help and, on playa if your unit needs fine tuning.

[momodumpling]

Well I knooooow!! I want it to be fun!! Hahaha thanks for your vote of confidence The swearing from me was passion, not defeat!

Ima go away and come up with a couple of plans...because I'm still keen on souping this baby up if we can....expect a PM or two Figgy

Now, carry-on with your nerd talk boyz :p xx

[FIGJAM]

Keep in mind that the bigger the cooler, the more water it will use.

The bucket uses 2 gallons for 5 hours of cooling.

The "box" and the "unicooler" will be about 6 gallons for 8 hours. (on low speed)

Momo if you build it with the big box fan,I guessing a gallon per hour!!!

So plan with care.

[momodumpling]

Great! I was guesstimating about 10 gallons a day. We already haul about 5 x 55 gallon drums in, so another drum is not a huge extra investment.

Should I be looking at a more powerful pump too? Or should the wicking effect from the bottom take care of the extra water absorbed/used?

I'm going to plan out the standard box cooler, and a souped up one, and see what the diff is cost and resource-wise.

[FIGJAM]

I don't depend on wicking at all.

The air flow tends to counter any wicking effect.

The box cooler can be built as designed.

If you go bigger there are plenty of boat bildge pumps that are AC or DC.

[FIGJAM]

Canoe- thanks for the great ideas. The extra fan I wished I had power for was for the exhausting duct to help get air OUT of the truck in a 12v DC system. I see the issues with over-exhausting.

I keep thinking it will just be too hot inside the truck and I'm going to have to lift the 2.5' of door up and use that as a big vent for the top layer of hot air to spill out. The idea of having a Lip along the bottom is great. No need to spill cold air out everything you open the door.

Just cut a hole near the top of the panel as far from the cooler as possible.

Save the cutout and hinge it with a piece of gorilla tape, to plug the hole at night.

Don't worry about "spilling" any cool air when you open the door as it will be replaced by the cooler in no time.

I often have my door open and it's just not an issue.

Coolers are not as finicky as AC that way.

[Colonel Monk]

Howdy:

I've been reading this thread with great interest, Mr Fig.

OK, I have two 7 gallon buckets that I'm going to use for my cooler. I got a couple of bulkhead fittings from bucketape.com and I'm going to use the second bucket as a water reservoir for filling. I'll just have a shutoff between the buckets to control the level.

I figured that I could get a little more cooling out the larger bucket. Which brings me to my question, oh wise one.

I'm going to be camping out in a 5x8 Uhaul trailer with a rollup door. So cubic feet 5.3 x 4.6 x 8 = 195 cubic feet. I was going to use an inline duct fan like thishttp://www.thelashop.com/inline-vent-duct-exhaust-fan-blower-4-inch-160-cfm.html?gclid=CJTjmLP6o7ECFeUBQAodrnw2bA because my camp has power, and I've got a fan controller that will let me adjust the airflow.

My two questions are this:

1) I've read here that the optimum flow is to replace the air every 3-5 minutes, so I need a fan with a range of 40 - 70 cfm, right? This fan will be overkill, but since I'm not limited by power I'd just as soon have more than I need than end up wanting.

2) I'm still a bit confused on the location of my buckets. I suppose, ideally they would go outside, and I'd duct the air in, correct? Else you might over saturate the incoming air with humidity, and turn it into a jungle. Yes?

My plan had been to build a plywood "block" at the bottom of the rollup door anyway, so I suppose that I'll be venting out the top of the door. I can install a pass thru thru this way.

Thanks for the help.

CM

For that trailer, I would get a 4x8 sheet of 2" styrofoam and make a panel with a 4' tall door in it for that opening at the back.

Prefab this so that when you get on site, you just stand it in the opening and pull the door down on top of it, and hold the door down with some bungees

Then you can cut intake and exit vents in it for the cooler.

The faster the air exchange the cooler the space will be,

That fan has a 4" intake.

Perfect!!!

Build the bucket cooler just as designed, but instead of mounting a fan on the lid, use the same ducting and the intake on the fan should fit perfectly in the septic 90.

The hole in the styrofoam will help support the fan so your bucket won't fall over from the wieght of the fan.

This will save you living space inside the trailer and the extra materials for the ducting that you had in mind.

Yes! That's a great idea man, having the swinging door in the opening? Just Maniacal!

K, I fully understand what's up with the door and mounting the fan thru the "wall" and all that - but you DO think my bucket should be outside, correct? And I should also have a vent to the outside - how important is size?

Now, lastly - if I do have my cooler outside - what happens if I use an even larger fan? More cooling still?

My camp has quite a bit of power and no issues with the water, either.

Regards,

CM

[waterkid]

Hey Guys
Maybe someone can help me out on this... pardon my ignorance but Im building a swamp cooler and following these plans, which are pretty great.

Does the swamp cooler need to be outside of my tent, or can it be inside in the corner? If I need to keep the cooler outside of the tent, I assume I need to cut a hole in my tent and Im trying to avoid that.

Is there an option for cooling the tent without having anything outside of it? Beyond a basic fan, does anyone know of any options to cool the tent from within?

Thanks!